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Loose dip stick tube, 16v-92

Discussion in 'Technical Discussion' started by Bamboo, Mar 30, 2014.

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  1. Bamboo, Mar 30, 2014
    #1
    Bamboo

    Bamboo Senior Member

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    One of my dip stick tubes is loose and moves around; 3 or 4 inches in any direction. On the bottom where it enters the block there are 3/4 inch and 7/8 inch faced hardware. As I understand it the larger one has a tube below it which has small holes in it so that the stick itself reads the level properly (not introducing air and getting a mis reading) and the smaller (upper) holds the tube (flared bottom) to the lower. Can I remove the upper and replace the tube easily? I'll do a further exam to determine why the support to the tube did not do it's job. Is there anything else I need to be concerned about? Is it possible that some portion of the tube has broken off and is in the pan? Thank you.
  2. NYCAP123, Mar 30, 2014
    #2
    NYCAP123

    NYCAP123 Senior Member

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    I had a similar situation on a Volvo awhile ago, and the proper cure was very cost prohibitive. So I simply used some liguid JB weld to hold the tube in place, and never had another problem.
  3. Bamboo, Mar 30, 2014
    #3
    Bamboo

    Bamboo Senior Member

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    I'm not really looking to put some goop on the tube and call it fixed, but thanks. I can buy a new tube for about $40, but really looking for facts and info about what may or may not be broken below the retaining hardware by someone who works on DD's for a living.
  4. Capt Ralph, Mar 31, 2014
    #4
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    On my 12v it's a 3/8 compression fitting before the block bottom edge.
    Can you show us a picture? Make sure I'm (and others) are on the same page?
    ,rc
  5. Bamboo, Mar 31, 2014
    #5
    Bamboo

    Bamboo Senior Member

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    I removed the tube by loosening and removing the 3/4 nut at the bottom. The tube's flare was broken off. The broken part cannot fall further down and into the pan; it was removed easily with a right angle pick. I need a new tube, or the tube to be "re-flared" by a hydraulic shop. The tube has the compression fitting but not directly to the block; instead it goes into a 7/8 which then goes to the block.

    Attached Files:

  6. Bamboo, Mar 31, 2014
    #6
    Bamboo

    Bamboo Senior Member

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    ......

    Attached Files:

  7. Capt Ralph, Mar 31, 2014
    #7
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Hydraulic shop?? NO.. If you don't have a flair kit, any plumber can knock it out before the first beer is opened. You can just re-flair that end. Not much to it. It will use less than 1/4 inch of tube and just remember that your dip is almost 1/4 inch high in reading.
    So, bring your oil up to where you want it. Get the tube end re-flaired, put it together and scratch your new line on the dip.

    If you are a perfectionist, get a new steel or copper tube, lil longer than needed, have the end flared, match and cut the other end to match your original tube length.

    If you really need it, copy your serial number and order a new tube.

    Or, put a blob of marine-tex all over it to hold it in place.

    It just depends on how fancy or OEM you want to be.

    Oil level is not a science, oil in the sump is important.

    Lake Worth & NY? When you pass thru south Georgia (Jacksonville FL), call me and I'll fix it. I'll be in WPB this summer it you can wait.

    ,Ralph
  8. Bamboo, Mar 31, 2014
    #8
    Bamboo

    Bamboo Senior Member

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    Thanks Ralph! The engines serial number shows a 6 inch tube so S&S changed it out when they marinized the engines I'd guess. I usually stop in St Augustine and then Charleston, btw.
  9. Capt Ralph, Mar 31, 2014
    #9
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    I service St.Augustine a few times a month. Old coffee on board?
  10. RT46, Apr 1, 2014
    #10
    RT46

    RT46 Senior Member

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    a flair kit is something that really should be in your tool kit anyway.

    I would try to repair the tube.
    I can never seem to match up dipsticks and tubes. I prefer to reuse them whenever possible.

    RE the JB Weld fix:
    I once did a temporary repair an oil burner furnace fitting with JB weld.
    The temp fix has lasted almost 18 years so far,.....I guess it could let go any day now.
  11. NYCAP123, Apr 1, 2014
    #11
    NYCAP123

    NYCAP123 Senior Member

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    Light tube with no pressure on it. My fix took 5 minutes, cost less than $10, and lasted at least 5 years that I know of. But some people don't like "goop".:D To me it beat the heck out of the boss incurring a couple hundred dollar repair bill, and maybe / maybe not having the correct oil level shown.
    The one thing I wonder about with this one though is that his tube " moves around; 3 or 4 inches in any direction". That makes me wonder about the lower tube. Mine was just leaking.
  12. Bamboo, Apr 1, 2014
    #12
    Bamboo

    Bamboo Senior Member

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    $10 for the drinks fund at my local hydraulic shop while waiting patiently was the cure. A new flare, a slight rebending of the tube and a reinstall showed the it was the path to tread. No goop needed, lol, and there is no sloppy movement. :)
  13. Capt Ralph, Apr 1, 2014
    #13
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Well there ya go, I think I still need to tap on ya for that coffee (cheap coffee is getting hard to find these days).
    Give us a heads up with your travels thru our area. I'll bring the Kahlua.

    AND, do consider a flair kit in your tool chest.

    ,rc
  14. Bamboo, Apr 1, 2014
    #14
    Bamboo

    Bamboo Senior Member

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    I'll be in there sometime in mid to late May. Love to meet you when we are in port. :)