Is it varnish or polyurethane?

I am going to get killed for this....but.... I like to use the one part varnish
(I recommend any of the well known brands)

I feel the one part is easier to work with, touch up, and blend repairs when necessary.

The big disadvantage of the one part is:
it requires multiple layers to build up. you really need a min of 5 but it starts to look great around 7 layers with 500 grit wet sanding in between layers. It will start to "pop" around 7. Also, some say that the one part is somewhat less durable than the two part. it is hard to say becuase scratches and dings in the one part can be easilly touched up with some wet sanding and a foam brush blending in another layer.

The two parts require less layers and seem to last longer but are more difficult to apply, and two part really needs to go on top of two-part or bare wood (you cant put two part on top of one part varnish). The two part also seems more difficlut to blend and touch up when the time comes.

I have never used epoxy, but I am told that clear epoxy with varnish on top works well and cuts down on the applications but requires just about as much work as 2 part varnish. It also has a different look to the wood.

One thing, varnish always seems to come out better if i start out with the wood cleaned, sanded, and prepped. Sanding down to 220 smoothness makes it really "pop" when done.

I have seen some 13 Whalers that have been restored and look mint.
Good luck.

I have found out that there is no easy way to make it look great.

If you arent looking for that glass varnish look, there is an easy application product that called "Cetol" (i have no commercial interest or connection to this product). This product looks good with 2 or 3 applications on bare wood and will last a few seasons and has easy touch up. The "Cetol" is not a varnish although i understand there is a gloss finish available.

I agree with all this. And will add, I prefer traditional one part varnish as well....... Cetol needs to go over bare wood.

I've used the Cetol and the natural teak color they recently came out with comes fairly close to varnish and is what I'd recommend. If you want a darker color, go with the dark and only use 2 coats and then clear over that. I'd recommend with Cetol to use either 2 or 3 coats of the Natural teak color they recently came out with to get the desired color, then use 2 (or 3)coats of the cetol clear over it....... that way when it get's dull in a year or two you can sand the clear (without getting into the color) and put another coat or two of clear right over it........it's repairable that way...... The Cetol does lay down really nicely with only 3 coats

I've been away from using these products for a long time, but I have a question. Is there really a 'two part varnish'?

I seem to remember some 'new age' varnishes that were blends of varnish and polyurethane. Is that what you are speaking of?

Long ago I was talked into applying clear polyurethane (Awlgrip I believe it was) to the handrails of a 60 powerboat. It looked great, and held up good to sunlight and saltwater, BUT it would develop a big blister underneath in any spot the got rapped a little hard with a blow. Finally had to take it all off....just didn't bond well to the wood.

Replaced it with a product called 'Bristol Fashion' (not the same as one that now goes by that name as I'm told), that was 10% polyurethane, and the rest varnish.....worked great. In fact I later varnished my wood ketch (extensive) with this product. looked great and held up very well.

If you are going down to bare wood you might consider starting with this CPES™-Wood based epoxy products to repair and resist wood rot.
then top coat with what ever you like.

I agree with everything you say about one part varnish. But it's hard to beat two part polys or Bristol for longevity.

BTW. That definately looks like polyeurethane on your seats on the whaler. Varnish would be a couple of shades darker. Although pictures are hard to tell.