this is a little long, but i thought it could be worth putting all my notes together in one post for those traveling the ICW this fall. I just got back to Miami yesterday afternoon, bringing the 70' Johnson that I captain back to her winter home. In short, the ICW isnt' as bad as some made it seem. you do have to be careful, there is little margin for error but you can make it thru with a 6 1/2' draft while enjoying the trip and some great scenery. spots where you need some tide (or want them for peace of mind) if you need more than 5' of water: New River Inlet, Carolina Beach Inlet, McClelanville, Dahwoo river / Watts Cut / Fenwick Cut, Fields Cut, Hell Gate, Little Mud River, Jekyll Creek, Matanzas and Haulover. On a positive note, it takes very little effort to time passage at the right time and find either anchorages or marinas before / after those sections. Alligator River Southbound, split R8/G7, in the middle, then proceed directly towards FL R 10, or towards a point between FL R 10 and G 9. simple and you will leave the shoal to stbd and never see less than 10'. Obviously, dont' miss the FL R 3, north of the shoal, not shown on older charts. Swansboro/Bogue Inlet, MM229 there is plenty of water, at least 12' MLW. however, two things can confuse people: 1)- inlet aid R20, located past G45 can be confused for an ICW marker if you dont' look at the number with binoculars and see that there is no ICW marking. After FL G 45, leave that floating R20 to port (southbound). 2)- floating G45A is much closer to the red side than you would expect (about 100/150' from the docks), do not assume that it's off station, and pass between G45A and the docks. you will find at least 12' MLW. Bear Inlet, MM 235 Never saw less then 10' MLW thru out this section... the key is to stay near the middle of the channel. that means the REAL channel, not the line on the plotter. As you approach, you can see that the point across from R58 extends a little more than on the chart making it obvious that the water is closer to R58. Browns Inlet, MM 237 North of G61, the real center of the channel is not where it is on the chart, it is further to the green side. this is another case of where you need to rely on your eyes and the actual shorelines and not the line on the plotter. As shown on the screen shot below, you can see my track appears to be almost on the red shoreline., I was in fact mid channel enjoying plenty of water at least 9 to 10' MLW. Further down, the channel is well marked and plenty deep if you pass midway between the floaters (60 and 61a) then bear slightly to the red side and pass half way between G63 and the opposite/red shoreline. New River inlet MM230 I came thru, a little after high tide and after dark, armed with the Sept COE survey, displayed on my laptop... http://www.saw.usace.army.mil/nav/AIWW/S2-TJ.pdf turns out that it was useless on the north side of the inlet since it doesn't show any data on the green side across from 72A. In the spring, I passed thru in the middle of the night and had to poke thru 3 times before finding water on the north side. This time around, I tried following the COE survey which shows a narrow channel between 72A and 72B. I didn't find it... I stopped when getting 8' on the sounder which considering the tides was about 6' MLW. I backed out and poked about 100' to port, which is outside the COE survey. I made it thru with about 9' MLW. there maybe enough water on the red side if you draw udner 6', i just didnt' want to take any chances. Looking at the survey, it's very narrow line of deeper water. on the south side of the inlet, is was a little easier and pretty much as described on teh COE survey. I came upon a large fishing float and swung around it, otherwise it's straightforward, with 9 to 10' MLW minimum Carolina Beach Inlet, MM 292 this is starting to be a real trouble spot with shoaling causing issues, even though it was dredged last year. I've seen reports of grounded vessels and heard a sailboat aground by R154 an hour before i went thru, on a rising 2/3 tide. The shallowest spots were 6' MLW between R154A and G155, then 5' MLW about 25' abeam of G154A. There might have been a little more water further away from G154A but i wasn't going to survey the area with a 6 1/4 draft as i was following another boat drawing 6' and he made it fine, i just followed... Everywhere else was fine, with most readings in the 12 to 14' MLW before and after G154A Snows Cut, MM 296 is starting to shoal up although still plenty of water for most. Worst spots were 8' MLW between G161A and R162 then between the cut and Cape Fear River, I saw 9' MLW jsut north of G167. A dredge was working there so hopefully it will be fixed soon Lockwood's Folly, MM320 no issues there... never saw less than 12' MLW., staying more or less mid channel. the only issue was about 25 small boats anchored on the edge or in the channel, some blocking the way. I advised USCG station Oak Island... Shallotte Inlet, MM330 all the floaties are back on station, it's all good for now. The shallowest spot was 9'MLW between R80A and R82. From mid channel at Daymarker R80, it's almost a straight line to G83 if the floaties are on station. No issues anywhereelse except a brief 9' MLW sounding off G121 at Mason Inlet. McClelanville, MM430 that stretch continue to be an issue. I didnt' get into Jeremy Creek (dredged earlier this year) but the ICW south of Jeremy creek has spots as low as 6' MLW off R40 and 7' by the creek south of R37. Most of the stretch was 8 to 10' MLW on centerline or about 100' off the greens. North of Ben Sawyer Bridge, MM461 Even though it was dredged earlier this year, it seems to tbe that shoaling is returning. I found some 8 1/2 MLW readings around G119, off "Inlet Creek". Not a problem yet, but could be a spot to watch for in the spring. White Point (Dahwo/Edisto) MM497 Some spots at 6 1/2 MLW between R110 and the two green cans G 111 and G113. Since I had plenty of tide, i tried looking on either side of centerline but didn't find anything better than that. same between G115 and R116, following the ICW line towards G115. Watts Cut, MM503 some spots at 7' MLW Fenwick Cut MM511 8' MLW in some areas, on ICW line No issues at Ramshorn, it's deep and well marked Fields Cut MM 575 there is still the well known very short hump across the channel at the northern entrance, about 6'MLW, 100' south of the point on the west side. On the south side, there is a 100' long section around 7' MLW just south of pilings on the east side, before R50 Hell Gate MM602 even though it's been dredged, there is still some skinny water (7 to 8' MLW), about 120' off, and slightly south of G89. Florida Passage MM607 about 12' MLW, the dredge Cherokee was working there. Johnson Creek at Cattle Pen MM 625 short hump at 9' MLW abeam the creek, no issues whatsoever elsewhere Creighton Narrows MM640 some 7' MLW spots along the way Little Mud River MM655 Most of the the straight section between R192 and G193 had about 8' to 9' MLW on ICW line, except for a slight hump to 6 to 7' off Crooked creek. Approaching the bend, southbound, it shoals up a little to aroudn 6' MLW then back to 7' MLW in the bend, slightly on the green side (outside), then 8' off R194 (100' away). On the south end of LMR, I aimed at a point exactly in the middle between G195 and the range marker., then made a sharp turn on the range. this gave me 7.5 to 8' MLW off G195 then increasing to 12' on the range. On previous trips, I looked for better depth on the R or G side at the south end, always finding less water. splitting in the middle of the G and range markers, then getting on the range without cutting or overshooting the corner seems tobe the best option. Jekyll Creek MM685 G13 to R16, 11' MLW, on the red side of the ICW line. G17, 10' MLW on the range, then 9' 1/2 way to G19 decreasing to 8' before G19 G19, 7', stay mid channle, do not over shoot the kink to port. depth increase quickly to 9' MLW and hold to 9' past Jekyll Wharf and 12' by the bridge. Cumberland Dividings, MM703 Following the markers (not the chart as 62A is shown in the wrong spot, about 1/4 mile too far north) I found a 4' MLW spot about 100' north of R60A following a line passing about 50' from 60A. Not sure if there is more water further away from R60A, there might be. Amelia River, MM719 Passed thru with 3′ of tides left and the shallowest spot is 8′ MLW north of G1, just before the bend when southbound (some charts show an 11' spot there). Everything else is at least 10′ MLW, on the ICW line, or just outside the line in the bend at G9. No issue there… the key as in every narrow creek and river is to stay on centerline. the charts show a clear shallow spot on the red side off G3 and G5 stray off at your own risk Matanzas Inlet, MM 794 i timed this one with the tides and the shallowest spot was about 8' MLW between R80A and G81A. i stayed closde to G81B and G81C, about 50' away and found 9' MLW Haulover Inlet, MM1080 this has always been a serious problem spot. Right now, the ICW is marked by 3 green cans and one red opposite of the southernmost green with the channel under 100' wide at this point. We anchored out north of the shoal, right before high tide, and did some checking with the tender finding 8 to 9' MLW on the green side. the big issue is the red side as the red buoy is located on the shoal. Worst, the channel doesn't shoal up gradually towards the red but suddenly steps up to 5 1/2' MLW about 20 or 30' from the red so you could very well have the depth sounder show plenty of water on one side of the boat while on the otherside your prop hits some very hard stuff. It is absolutely critical to hug the greens, as close as you can, especially the southernmost one... I had 25kts blowing from the East so i was able to pass within a few ft of the greens without fear of drifting over one of them. When passing between the final green and the red, you need to turn to port about 30 degrees towards FL G9, make sure your stern doesn't swing out too wide or you will hit the shoal especially with a larger, wide beam boat.
Excellent info for those that travel that road or have been down it. I remember passing Lockwood's Folly year's ago and seeing a 40-something footer up on the bar. Only time to pass thru was at high tide, full moon, planets in alignment (well, maybe not that part). But it was skinny. Glad to see it's been cleaned up.