how to move engine

A picture of the motor mounts would be more helpful. The up and down is handled by the nuts on the motor mount and I think the mounts are slotted where they are lag bolted into the engine beds. As far as the moving, you can use a 24" pry bar on that light of an engine. If you haven't done it before you may want to hire that job out. It's not particularly hard it does take a little while to do the job correctly.

I agree, or you can also use a bottle jack and some blocks of wood to set it on and distribute the load.

Hope this helps:
Reducing # of Pixels in a Photo

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Simply reduce the size of the picture equally in the editing software that came with your camera. Stretch/Skew and reduce it manually by entering in how much pixels you want until the width becomes 640 or a little less but do not forget to equalize the vertical or else the image will look distorted.

The problem with trying to use a bottle jack is that there is not a good place to place it. I wouldn't put it under the oil pan or any pulley's. It's also hard to get a flat base under the jack. If you have access to an a-frame that would be the best way to lift the motor. If you are determined to use a jack you need to get it under a part of the block or something bolted to the block.

No, no & no. As dsharp mentioned you have to get to the block. You also have to use a 2x under it. But a bottle jack is risky as it could shift. Even the prybar could put you in a pickle if it slips. An A-frame is best or you could probably rent a lift from an autoparts store.

Hire a pro to do your engine alignment. It has to be perfect. No offense, but if you are asking these questions here, you most likely don't have the knowledge or the tools to do the job correctly, and done incorrectly things will get torn up.

Use a block of wood and put it under a piece of the motor mount itself, or on the engine block somewhere........you only need to move the motor a tiny bit at a time as it is still supported by the motor mounts......and you just need to move adjusting nuts around etc......

You pull the shaft out and roll it on a flat surface, that'll tell you if it's bent. Then you sight up through the strut and shaft log. This can be done several ways using a laser or wire and taking measurements. If the strut is actually bent or out of position, there are various ways to deal with it depending on how bad the situation is. If the strut is actually bent, most likely you already found the shaft is as well. You can take it to a prop/shaft shop and as long as it isn't in too bad of condition, they'll be able to straighten and refurbish it.
If the shaft spins reasonably freely when disconnected from the engine, you still don't have the engine in the correct position. It has to be placed exactly to within .002" and 0* angle of arc alignment.

Again, my advice is to call in a pro on this.

You will have to correct the strut alignment first. Struts can usually be straightened. This will need to be done near the boat since multiple test installations will be required so you know the strut is correct. Test mount the strut and put the shaft in it. The shaft should land right in the center of the shaft log in the hull when you slide it in. If it is a little bit down, that is ok because it will droop some. I would put a new cutlass bearing in the strut also at this time. If you shaft is also bent, I do not recommend straightening that. The stainless has some memory and the shaft can go back out of true over time. Most machine shops can make you a new shaft.
Once you have,
known, good shaft,
new cutlass bearing,
correct strut alignment to the log,
then you can align the engine

Those engines are small enough to line up using a simple pry bar.
Once you get to the engine alignment you need to shoot for gap anywhere around the coupler of less than three thousandths of an inch. Check this several time with the shaft coupler or the transmission coupler (rotated) into different positions. The coupler on either end could also be out of true and that will give you a false alignment measurement.

If this makes sense to you, you can do things in this order and it should work out fine. If it is confusing, it may be worth the money to hire a professional to be sure you get it right.

This is critical on any inboard boat.

good luck!

feel free to pm me if you have any questions
i am glad to help
good luck