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Hard Starting Genset

Discussion in 'Carver Yacht' started by OutlawNTexas, Apr 21, 2011.

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  1. OutlawNTexas

    OutlawNTexas Member

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    This is my 2nd boat with a genset, and both have been extremly hard to start. The 1st was a Westerbek and now I have a Kohler.

    In both cases I need to crank the motor for what seems like minutes. Then as they "begin" to start, I have to keep the starter motor running to get it spun-up enough to keep running. Both were tuned (all new ignition parts and fuel filters) but no improvement.

    Here is my question. I have a 350 Mariner and after a couple of days sitting the genset seems to lose prime. Unless I crank it for minutes, it won't start, and often times even after cranking it for minutes it still wont start. I can however, connect a fuel line to a gas can sitting on the deck (higher then the fuel tanks) and watch the fuel fill and motor start right up. Both tanks in the boat are full. What do you folks think is going on? All I can think of is a check valve or something in the tanks that aren't working.

    Thanks for the help...
  2. bernd1972

    bernd1972 Senior Member

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    Try and check the fuel pump, I would assume that it does not really work correctly.
  3. dennismc

    dennismc Senior Member

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    If the fuel pump is electric I would suspect the pump and maybe the fuel filters and water separators, if manual pump, probably the filters and separators first.

    You also may be be pulling air between the tank and fuel pump.
  4. Robertoman

    Robertoman Member

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    Check the antisiphon valve at the fuel tank, looks just like another fitting.
  5. OutlawNTexas

    OutlawNTexas Member

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    Thanks all,

    The first thing I did was remove the pump and disassemble it. The rotor, screen, etc. looked good. It pumps gas from an elevation way above the tanks with ease.

    Where would I find an anti-s valves
    ?
  6. dennismc

    dennismc Senior Member

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    generator

    Most pumps will pump very easily from "above"..does not prove the pump is OK..
  7. OutlawNTexas

    OutlawNTexas Member

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    Is there a test for the pump? I hate to spend $250 if that isn't the problem...
  8. bernd1972

    bernd1972 Senior Member

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    You could replace the fuel hose with some transparent stuff (for testing only!) and see if air gest in over some time...
  9. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,

    Put a vacuum gauge on the inlet side, operate the pump till you get the max Vacuum which should be at least 10" from memory and leave it a while. The VAC should not drop away very much if the pump is any good.

    I am referring to a Cam driven lift pump like the one shown here.

    http://www.agrilineproducts.com/Images1/Products/5415.gif
  10. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    A vaccuum gauge is good, to see how much vaccuum it's pulling while running. Change the fuel filter. A cheap way is to bypass the pump, hook the fuel line to an outboard style primer bulb with a short piece of clear hose on the output side, and pump it into a fuel can and see how easy it is to pump it and if there are any bubbles in the clear line. It should tell you if there is a restriction from the tank to the pump, and/or if it's sucking air.
  11. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,

    Connecting it like this will not show what the full vacuum it can pull is. It will only show what the required Vac to get the fuel going is and as the motor is always going so will the pump. Connecting to the Fuel Inlet and operating it shows the full amount it can pull and if you leave it with no pump action you will see what happens to it over an hour or so.
  12. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    That is true, but testing it while running will show if there is any restriction in the line as well such as a blockage.
  13. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,

    If there was such a blockage in the line that allowed the pump to pull full Vac I doubt that hard starting would be the guys only problem.
  14. Fireman431

    Fireman431 Senior Member

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    If the genset is in the sound deadening box, remove the lid and watch the choke levers when starting to see if they move. They will be running from the top of the carb ro the black (round) electric choke solenoid/spring assembly. When cranking, the springs should move approx 1/2", which activates the choke. If they don't move, move them by hand and see if the unit starts.

    Kohler advises not to run the starter motor more than 15 seconds when attempting to start. If it doesn't start, it advised to close the raw water seacock (I know...weird) until the unit attempts to start. then reopen the valve and start the genset. It reads about water intrusion back through the exhaust system and reeking terrible havoc on your gennie.

    Here is the service manual for the Kohler generators including a troubleshooting guide for hard starting engines. Even if your isn't one of the models listed, the troubleshooting should still be pretty relevent.

    http://marinegenerators.us/kohler/lit/TP5986.PDF
  15. OutlawNTexas

    OutlawNTexas Member

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    Thanks for all of the ideas!

    When this all started I checked the choke and it was moving. I then removed the fuel line at the carb and it was dry. I then removed and disassembled the fuel pump, which "looked" ok. I attached a clear line to the pump inlet and the other end in a gas can about 4' above the pump. Sucked the gas right in and the motor started. I then attached the clear fuel line to the fuel line running from the "port/starboard" tank selector to the pump, and the fuel filled the line and the engine started. I then reattached the main fuel line to the port/starboard tank selector and the engine started (still had fuel in the line from previous test) and kept running. I could switch back and forth between tanks with no problem. It ran for 20 minutes with full load with no issues. Next day, no gas, no start!
  16. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,

    By putting the gas can 4' above the engine you are creating a positive head at the pump inlet, this might not be the case when you have everything connected normally.

    Did you leave the clear hose on and see it was empty in the morning or see bubbles being sucked up?

    With a mechanical pump if the fuel is draining away from your system overnight then there is a non return valve somewhere that is leaking.

    Is the Fuel Pump on one of those mechanically or electrically driven?

    Is it feasible to fit a non return valve at a point close to the tank top to retain fuel in the line between carb and tank enough to get it started?

    Another solution could be fit a proper marine electric fuel pump to it, each time you turn the key on the pump will be energised and fill the float bowl regardless of how much has drained away between operating times.
  17. OutlawNTexas

    OutlawNTexas Member

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    I didn't leave the clear line on this weekend, but will make a better section with good barbed and hose clamped connections to provide a diagnostic "sight glass". The pump is electric and only runs when the engine is cranking and running. The fuel lines that attach to the fuel tanks just screw to an elbow that is attached to the tank. I could easily attach an anti-siphon valve there if that would solve the problem. I was just thinking that if such a valve is necessary, there probably are valves on each pick-up, and it would be odd to have both fail at the same time...

    Thanks again for the help!
  18. dsharp

    dsharp Senior Member

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    I think that engine has a electro-magnetic check valve in the bottom of the float bowl. See if there is a wire coming off the float bowl. The float needle may be stuck letting the fuel siphon back to the tank. Have you tried shutting the fuel off at the tank when you leave? There should be enough fuel in the bowl for the engine to start the next day. It's been a while since I've worked on generators but the safety features cause a lot of running problems. It should have a high-temp shutdown and low-oil shutdown. I would think they would cut off the ignition rather than the fuel if it was a shutdown feature, though. I would make sure the fuel pump is getting 12 volts when the switch is in the run position.
  19. OutlawNTexas

    OutlawNTexas Member

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    "Shut off the fuel when you leave" That is an excellent idea. I will try that too. Thanks!
  20. dennismc

    dennismc Senior Member

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    Hope that electric fuel pump is "approved" and not an add on later.