I have a 1966 Californian 28 powerboat with a 454 Crusader engine with a rochester quadrajet carburetor. I ventilate the engine compartment for 5 minutes before running the engine and keep the blower running during engine operation. The carburetor emits a lot of gas fumes that enter the cabin because the engine compartment extends under the enclosed helm area. The fumes continue for weeks after running the engine, even when shutting the fuel line valve at the tank. I have diligently searched around the fuel tank and fuel lines and cannot find any fuel leak. I have used a PID/organic vapor detector to sniff around as well, and the gasoline vapor concentrations are about 1 ppm in the cabin, 5 ppm in the engine compartment, and about 300 ppm emitting from the flame arrest/carb. The source of the fumes clearly seems to be the carburetor. I just had the carburetor rebuilt and the fumes seem the same or even worse. This weekend I shut the fuel line valve and ran the engine until it quit to see if that made a difference (results pending). Whats going on and how do I eliminate the fuel smell? Is it normal?
If you can smell it, it can blow. However, the fumes lasting throws me off. I'd think leak because of that. There are carb guys and then there are carb guys. I'd suggest having a different one look at it. The carb itself may be leaking, or the fuel pump, but I'm thinking the carb especially since it was just rebuilt.
I am not a mechanic, but heavy gasoline fumes from a running, properly aspirated engine doesn't seem normal. Why do you say the source is "clearly the carb"? What evidence do you see?. It would seem that if you have run the carb dry and turned off the fuel supply, but the odor is still there when you check, the carb isn't the source. Also check that the tank vent line is secure?
I checked the vent line and its secure. I can't find any leaking liquid gas and the PID/vapor sniffer I used to search around the engine compartment, trace the fuel lines, and sniff the fuel pump read at background levels in all these areas, but gas levels were very elevated from the flame arrestor/carb throat. The carb throat is dry, no sign of liquid gas. As far as running the carb dry, I just did that this weekend and will check in a few days to see if that made a difference.
Both parts of this sentence are big red flags for me. If the gasket is not applied cleanly that could be a source of the leak. Any amount leaking there would quickly evaporate/ burn off while running, leaving no residue, and the amount may be extremely minor at rest. Check that area closely while running, as any leakage may be imperceptible when not running.
I'll check the gasket out. The mechanic that installed the carb couldn't get the first gasket to seal and had to take it off and fit a second one. Seems good now, but I'll take a close look.
Bingo. What you describe could be caused by an extremely slight amount of seapage. Try running a clean thin paper towel along the edge of the gasket right after running. It may show on that. That carb may need to be pulled, the surface thoroughly scraped and cleaned and a new gasket seated. P.S. I probably don't need to tell you this but I will. This is a very dangerous situation. No cruising. Run it only to check and keep a fire extinguisher close at hand when checking this.
Older Q-jets had problems with their floats that may not be caught by a mechanic unfamiliar with their many nuances. The old style floats were made of foam with a coating to keep gas from soaking in and making them heavier which will cause them to sink even in a full bowl and keep the metering rods open. That will overfill the float bowl and excess is dumped either out the side or into one of the throats. Older foam ones often scraped against the sides of the bowl chafing through the coating and they're finished. Newer ones have soldered brass floats that fixed this problem, before they came out I used to make my own but it was a royal pain. I second the suggestions of a second opinion , Q-jets are probably the most difficult carb to master and the number of mechanics around nowadays who are qualified to tear into one has to be dwindling. Holley's, Edelbrocks and Webers are childs play compared to Q-jets, make sure whoever pops the top on one truly knows what he's doing! Failing finding one who is truly familiar with them I would buy a rebuilt one from a reputable marine supplier and send yours off and have it rebuilt for a spare.
What ever you do, DO NOT confuse an automotive or truck carb with a marine carburetor. Marine carbs vent internally and if they flood, the fuel goes down inside, and not all over on the outside. Unfortunately a lot of so-called marine mechanics do not know this. Crusader & Merc use to also install an angled wedge under the carb to keep it level (down angled engines). I have seen where these have been removed (by same marine mechanics) and float levels are off. For some reason, Q-Jets are darn expensive. Not sure of the exact model number (4165/75?), But Holly has a Spread Bore marine replacement for the Q-jet that was cheaper. Be careful down there.
77, How does the boat start? Does it take more cranking to start since the carb was worked on? Black smoke out the exhaust when starting? Where are the fuel tanks, aft or mid?
Starts great, no issues there. Fuel tank is aft. No smoke. After the carb was rebuilt, it seem to be richer at idle with strong smell of gas in the exhaust and visible sheen on the water. After it warms up, the smell and sheen go away. I ran the carb dry by shutting off the valve at the tank and running the engine out of fuel. I check the boat a week later and the gasoline smell is much less than before.