Fuel Pumps Quit ....Both?

Hi,

Is it possible when you were replacing the breakers that you have disturbed or dis connected some feeds for the fuel pumps?

I would see if the fuel pumps power up when you turn the ignitions on before ginning about with a screwdriver up the spark plug cable.

Also be careful with sparks and gasoline when working on the engines, make sure you have the bilge blowers on and do not make anything spark or short circuit deliberately of you can smell gas.

Well, you need 3 things to make an engine run. Air, Fuel and Spark (or heat in a Diesel). I'd start with spark (quick and easy), then go to fuel and air.

Hi,

To be correct you need Fuel, Air,Compression and Timed spark to run a gas engine. This is in addition to the starter motor engaging, the crankshaft going around at 1/2 the camshaft speed (4 stroke) and the valves opening and closing at the correct time in order to get it running in the first place

I suggested the Fuel Pump power check as the original poster has said he has done some electrical work first then then noticed that where he normally hears the fuel pumps start when he turns on the ignition and this no longer happens.

The chances of both having an ignition system failure in a few minutes of each other is quite remote where as the chances that the fuel pumps are no longer audible at power on when they normally are would tend to suggest that the problem may well lay in this direction.

What do you need fuel pumps for anyway? Didn't what's his name say there is supposed to be a gravity fed fuel system?

Not this again!! Marmot you should delete this post before the worms get out of that can.

I think that poster was saying that there shouldn't be gravity fed fuel supply to lift/boost pump inlets as it would leak and cause problems if a system component failed.

I wouldn't think any of these little boats have their Fuel Tanks above the fuel pump inlets- someone who is familiar with this particular model please feel free to correct me if I am wrong

My post was completely tongue-in-cheek, wink wink, nod nod ... taking the p-ss, eh what. There was not a serious thought associated with it.

Hi,

I am glad to read you got things sorted.

Maybe you should also buy one more pump to carry as a spare in case something hapoens like this again.

Ah the world of big boats. Good idea but on a 15 year old 38 footer I'd be thrilled to find spare filters and belts much less any kind of pumps. Space and budgets are usually bit limited.

Hi,

That is exactly why I didn't suggest that he bought two spare pumps

Hi,

It is a good idea to turn off all the power as you say above.

Also makew sure you have the space as well ventilated as you can.

Shut off the fuel, catch any that leaks out and dispose of it safely.

With your rusty nuts I would suggest a good soaking with penetrating oil would not go amiss. Not having knowledge of your exact arrangement I can only generalize next.

If the pipe you want to remove seems to have two nuts between the pipe and the pump the inner one should also be held with a good fitting wrench as you attempt to undo the outer one ( if this is the case the inner one will be a connector to allow the pipe olive to compress).

If at all possible try to avoid using adjustable wrenches for this type of work.

If as you start to move the nut the pipe looks like it is also turning try wiggling the pipe back and forth a bit and spray some more penetrating oil on it.

Reassembly is the reverse of dis assembly, have a good look for leaks when you first power the pumps up again and again after a short run when everything has been up to temp and had a bit of vibration.

If you are going to use a flexible fuel line make sure it is suitable for the fuel you are using and isn't long enough to rub on anything that might wear a hole in it and cause you real problems down the track.

Let me just add to what K1W1 said with keep a fire extinguisher close, try not to have the job between you and your exit and keep your blowers on.

If you have a line wrench (rather than a typical open ended wrench) I'd highly suggest using it, or getting a line wrench to remove the fittings on the tubing / pump. Using a line wrench will greatly reduce your chances of destroying the flare nut.

Although, if it's rusty now, it may not be a bad idea to replace them and redo the fittings to fresh material.

I'm thinking you may be using non-marinized parts,