Fresh water pump refit questions and recommendations.

I happen to have a spare Headhunter X-Caliber 24volt pump. It’s new in an open box and I’d be happy to sell it for a reasonable price to a good home.

So, May I ask, What's wrong with the dual Shurflo pumps?

Sounds like you are picking up air. Raising the cut off pressure is a quick way to cure it on a diaphragm pump like the Shurflo (and others).

The HeadHunter pump will give you more grief if it picks up any air.
Headhunter pump may need to be installed below the tank level to to reduce these issues..

Agree w/Ralph, Headhunter needs clear stream to work effectively. Great pump, but air leak will trip it off.

I use a 110 volt shallow well jet pump. Had it for 4.5 years and very happy. Plenty of volume and not as noisy as Shureflow. The 2500 watt inverter handles the pump very well.

I have same set up but w/o inverter. I have one of the units that has the pump mounted on top of the pressure tank. I believe the pressure tank is 5 gal or so. Unit works great, not too loud and with the pressure tank it doesn't cycle on/off too much. I have a back-up DC pump just in case.

We had a small jet pump also. Was on the boat since our purchase 18 years ago. Pumped just a bit more than the DCv pump.
Approx 2.5 gallon accumulator. Was a happy camper.
10 years ago, purchased an used Headhunter pump for a spare or re-sale.
The steel pump base finally rusted out on the jet pump. HH pump finally went in and we are very happy.
Somehow, The HH pump overcomes the long 3/8" tubing and delivers more water at the shower.
The FloJet DCv pump now is used when we are away in water conserve mode.

BTW I still have that jet-pump. I started using fiberglass angle to make new stands for A/C pumps. Will make one for this pump on some slow day.

Are you using any check valves in the pickup lines? or a foot valve in the tanks? Or do you feel they aren't needed?

In a perfect world, an inlet check valve would not be needed.
Most pumps (that means not all) already have an anti flow back action inherent in their design or added in by the mfg.
A pump installed below the water level should not need one either.

However, my world luvs to toss rusted wrenches at me from time to time.

43 years ago, Bertram decided to build our boat with 1 1/4" supply lines from the forward end of the two after tanks, to the forward/galley bilge, ahead of the engine room.
This puts the pumps rite at the top of the tanks water level and higher when underway.
When we purchased our Bertie 18 years ago, lots of new items installations were not complete, including the potable water system.
More or less, I just connected up some hoses and clamped it all together and started using the boat.
There were some times when the tanks were not full (not empty either) when we would open a faucet and water/air would come out.
Sometimes just air or nothing.
During the chase to find the issue, the pumps were disconnected from the supply a few times. During these trouble shooting trials, after re-assembly, it was always a pain getting the pumps primed to test again. That is when I dived into my pile-o-brass and pulled out a check valve and installed it just before the pumps.
Well, my problem went away, I left that check valve installed. Been that way for over 16 years now.

Every once in a long while, mostly after a rough day off shore, we will get a few air splashes at a faucet. Concluded that the lower the tank level, the more likely this would happen.
I suspect as the boat pitches, air in the tank works into the 1 1/4" supply line. The check valve I installed long ago, may just hold some water in front of the pump where it does not loose a prime when first turned on.

To answer your question; Maybe, Maybe Not.
Re-read my first four lines above.

Oh, a check valve will not fix the HeadHunter pump air issue. It may reduce some issues but not the fix.

Yes, turbulence on larger supply feeds seem to encourage the prime to slip back towards the tank. While the pump itself doesn’t lose pressure bleeding back, the tank and supply tend to coordinate to deliver air, oft enough to sometimes trip the pump.

Played with a spring ball check, and it might be too much for the pump to over come while also trying to pull a prime. Been wondering about a foot valve in the tank as I need to go in there for cleaning and tank maintain this season.

Both tank tops are perhaps 3 feet below the pump.

I have been having 50/50 results with swing check valves thru the years and lately avoid them completely. The in-line hat/plunger is what I try to find when needed for water. PVC or Brass like for a shallow well.
These usually need very little suction to be drawn thru.

Examples only;
https://www.lowes.com/pd/ProPlumber-Brass-Check-Valve/3678614

https://www.lowes.com/pd/AMERICAN-VALVE-PVC-Sch-40-1-in-Socket-PVC-In-line-Check-Valve/1000289435

What kind / model of pump?

Thanks. That’s the basic stainless check I’ve tried. Perhaps I can cut some of the spring out and lessen the tension.

headhunter pump following a 240v shallow well jet. The jet overheats once and fails. Then toast. HH at least just trips for reset.

Any where to place the pump lower?

No. Not for the aft tank. I can’t significantly lower that rise. Just need to hold the water in place at sea. That’s why I’m thinking foot check.

Can you get into the tank for this?
Bottom feed tank or out the top?