euro 230v pump compatible with usa 230 v??

The difference in wiring for US and European 220~240 VAC is residential systems in the US are center tapped. One 110~120 volt leg is the inverse of the other leg. Where in Europe a single leg has all the current and the other leg is a neutral, in the US L-1 and L-2 are both conductors and return legs. The earth ground connection is separate from the neutral or return leg. The generator you have will need to have a 220~240 VAC coil to use the motor, you would just use the proper legs for the voltage required. If the proper legs are indeed L-1 and L-2 then the only difference would be L-2 instead of neutral on the motor. In the US most 220~240 single phase is two conductors and no neutral. If the pump is rated at both 50 and 60 hz it will be fine, the speed will be 10% higher on 60HZ that is all.

Steve

In the old math that would be 20 percent faster. Not only that but the output curve of a centrifugal pump varies considerably when operated at different speeds.

Check the pump specs and make sure there are no system problems at higher flow rates.

Old math? I just plain miss typed! The original poster mentioned dual 50/60 hz ratings, these should include the flow specs at each speed. A centrifugal pump at a given HP is going to be pretty constant flow, with an open discharge it may increase a bit but, in a piped system he will likely not see any notable difference. It is on a domestic water supply, is it going to an accumulator? Perhaps showers were just a trickle with the old pump?

Steve

We do it all the time here, having a more simplistic view than Steve. 220 european is 220 on one side and neutral on the other. On a US system we just feed two legs of 110 to get 220. The real issue is the cycles.

But if your system will take both, just go right ahead.

Our real problem was getting 60 Hrtz equipment to run on 50 cycles. That took a bit of time to figure out, but we got it right at the end.

Hi,

I would be interested to know about that one as it is a not uncommon but particularly annoying problem for many who do not have freq converters.

We tried everything, some systems were a waste of energy, some were just too **** expensive or not practical.

Running the motors off a standard 220/110 transformer at 50 cycles was a guaranteed failure at around 12/14 months with some dangerous issues, the more so that 220 is often more like 230 in some places.

So we did experiment and found out that if you feed 105 volts at 50 cycles, a 60 hertz motor will last a decade. We had step down transformers made with taps 220/230 in 105 out.

Hi,

I was once involved in a vessel called G Whiz, she was built with a single genset that provided 208V 3 Ph 60Hz to the switchboard.

We went to the Med from England when it was new and were supplied with s Shore Power Unit calculated and supposedly tested by the builder - Brooke Yachts.

It would accept a variety of inputs by changing the tappings and the secondary part was setup for 176V Output.

This while working out very well on paper was an unmitigated disaster and caused severe damage to a lot of equipment onboard other than Electric Motors such as Fluorescent Lights, Coffee Machine, Cooker and anything that uses frequency to drive a clock.

Dropping the voltage is no magic bullet.

I have since done a few projects where we used Motor Gensets or solid state Shore Power Units with a good degree of success.

That is the bottom line. It works for motors themselves and when the f/v ratio is calculated properly there will be no problems.

Where problems arise is with machines driven by the motor, especially centrifugal pumps and flow sensitive systems they supply.

As you mentioned, other clocked systems and some saturable electromagnetic components will overheat or not function at frequencies other than they were designed to handle.

There is a lot more to the issue than just voltage as you well know.

The question asked by the original poster was quite specific about a motor.
It's well know that any device that is frequency sensitive needs to be fed the exact sine.

Hi, I am wondering whose dick you are playing with when posing questions like that.

You do anything on your boat following an internet recommendation and then there is a problem what do you think any insurance Co will say?

Geez! go back to my post, it was intended for people that would have to run motors designed for 60 Hertz to run on 50 cycles. There was nothing "daring" or "groundbreaking", we tried different methods and stood by what worked in the long run.

You are going somewhere else with this rant.

I agree that frequency sensitive equipment is an issue with 50/60Hz systems however, AC induction motors are not. Most AC induction motors are rated at nominal voltage and can run on +- 10% with no problems, at lower voltage they use more current or draw higher amperage. A 50Hz motor on 60Hz runs fast an a 60 Hz motor on 50Hz runs slow. Either motor could run on a variable speed control from 20-80Hz depending on motor design.

Any single phase induction motor requires two wires to run, either a neutral or inverted wave form will fit the bill here. All the inverted legs are is the two outside taps of the center tapped transformer, corner grounded. This is how a center tapped utility transformer works in the US. Your generator may or may not have this type of power distribution. If the generator has a low voltage L-1 and L-2 that can be used to power high voltage devices then this is how they are wired it matters not that the motor is from Europe or the US. Generally an electric motor uses the current required. The problem with running a 60 Hz motor at 50 Hz is the slower speed will demand more current to produce the HP, this can lead to overload. In the 50/60Hz debate the motor will use more current to produce the same power running slower, the 50Hz motor on 60Hz does not face this issue.

Further if you doubt your skills and have uncertainty with regards to the installation you should consider either hiring a competent installer or shop to complete the repair. Another general saying is "if you have to ask how, you probably shouldn't" you seem uncomfortable with the whole concept.

Steve

You are really obtuse, if you think for a second that the 50/60 hertz issue with motors is just theoretical, it's not. What you define as "overload" is really a failure with often dire consequences.

Love the "A 50Hz motor on 60Hz runs fast an a 60 Hz motor on 50Hz runs slow". What a revelation!

Indeed. I'm out of this mess. No wonder there is 50 lurkers to a post......

Gee, I don't have a clue huh, I have run major manufacturing plants with European, Asian and American machinery for nearly 25 years. I've had machines run three shifts six days a week for years without motor issues. 75% of all our machinery was made outside the US and was designed to run on 380/415V 50Hz. 90% of the machinery is CNC or PLC controled. I am very familiar with motor controls for AC, DC and servo drives. Some of the motors we use are 25000 RPM spindle motors running at 400Hz. I have straightened crashed spindles and run them thousands of hours, we have had but a handful of winding fail mainly due to single phasing.

A fractional horsepower single phase induction motor is not rocket science. The situations I mention are not theoretical, put a meter on the motor. Hell on any boat worthy of this concern just buy the proper motor if you are having premature failures.

Steve