Following up on the thread regarding the Heat Exchanger failure a short time ago, I posted a question about alarms that warn the skipper of lack of cooling water flow BEFORE the engines send an overheat alarm and the damage is already done. Seems to be a very logical way to protect the engines without too much cost involved. There were a few suggestions and I am looking at this product: AQUALARM :: 13114 Large Capacity Cooling Water Flow Detectors $95.00 Any other advice or suggestions? My raw water inlet measures: Internal Diameter 3" (75mm) External Diameter 3 3/4" (83mm) Thanks in advance
Hi mate, Funnily enough I was looking on the Dashew Cruising site last night. SetSail FPB 83 Somewhere, in one of the engineroom photos, they had fitted a flow meter in the seawater cooling system. It was made by these people but I can't find which model it was. Sight Flow Indicators | Sight Glass | Sight Windows | Flat Glass Gauge | Level Gauge | Digital Flow Meter | Liquid Level Gauges Their Aussie dealer is ekotech.com.au Hope this helps.
Thanks Fish, I can't find anything with a 3" diameter, plus I want an alarm to the flybridge, although site window is a start. Which brings another question: Why not have a sight glass for the impeller on the raw water pump?
You don't necessarily need a full sized, full flow, device. If you use raw water to supply a shaft seal, there are small flow switches that will monitor that flow for example. A flow switch in the transmission cooler hose will do the same.
That datasheet contains a lot of information. </sarcasm> It has been mentioned here and in the first thread, a pressure switch or gauge somewhere behind the pump. That can be really easy if there are already threaded and capped holes in the coolant circuit. Which is most likely the case. Remember that pressure is depending on engine rpm. The same is true for flow. An option for wet exhausts is to install a temperature switch on the exhaust mixer. The idea is that if no water get injected the exhaust temperature will rise very quickly and thus trip the switch and sound the alarm before the engine has time to overheat. After all the thermal mass of the mixer is much smaller than the engine. While you are running wires. Yet another way to prolong the life of the engine is to install a pyrometer. Measuring the exhaust temperature at the manifold and knowing the engine specs gives a good indication of the actual engine load. Again, not too complex if there is already a capped port. A pyrometer as used on diesel engines is just a thermocouple with a remote gauge, so that is certainly not rocket science either.
Thanks. The simpler and most resilient system will be the one I install. I once owned "state of the art" MAN engines and there were far to many times that alarms screamed, the engine cut out and every time it was a false alarm. Some of these occasions was the exhaust temp sensor. In fact the alarm followed by the shut downs became a software problem in their own right!
Risor temp sensors Working on a Ray now that almost overheated. It had the temp switches on the risers. Bad design in this case, the thermal-switches are normally open and close when hot. Thru the years the crimps and wires failed. No riser over temp alarm. I liked the system at first and may incorporate it in the future with normally closed thermal-switches driving a relay before the alarm.
Some wires, a piezo alarm buzzer and a simple temperature alarm sensor installed in the exhaust hose rigth behind the elbow will do. If your sea water flow in the cooling system goes down the amount of sea water for cooling the exhaust flow will go down and temperature will go up before the situation becomes critical for the engine.
Looks good! What are the thoughts on whether to have a smaller fitting after the raw water pump, or if it would be better to be before the pump?
If thinking before the pump. The water should be clean from the strainer protecting the sensor. Installed after the pump; If an impeller blade came loose, it could damage the sensor. Then bass ackwards; if it's before the pump and has a leak, air would be drawn into the system and you may never know, if it's after the pump and leaks, then easy to see. The MFG may have a preference if the sender would hold up better to low pressure vs high.
The sender counts the rate a magnet passes a sensor, pressure is irrelevant until it exceeds the structural limit of the device. Again, use a smaller diameter unit and place it just before the spray ring or reduction gear cooler, anyplace where raw water flows will work.
Down stream of the pump. In fact I would look at putting it down stream of the engine if you can. That way if you develop a flow restriction in the engine you could catch it.
Yes, but you would know it by reduces water flow, not by a damaged water flow sensor. Over all; I'm still liking the riser temp sensors idea best. Normal closed sensors driving a relay and alarm. No more clamps and junk in the water circuit, enough clamps & junk already. Next best is a water pressure switch T'd into the system after the raw pump. Newer gen-sets already use these above. Like the paddle wheels below my hull (hull speed), The in-line paddle wheel sensors are just more clamps, a new place for a leak and more mechanical stuff to foul and mess up (and break). Maybe one day a cheap Doppler flow sensor would come available (yea, rite, cheap). IMO, rc