Cabo Rudder Alignment & Adjustment

I will give it a shot.

Wedge Rudder = Aft Trailing Edge is thicker than Front Leading Edge, plate Rudder has no difference from Leading Edge to Trailing Edge. They probably varied by supplier and/or model.

Toe-In is fairly common and you really do not want your Rudders without Toe-In (or out, depending on installation) for a fast SF. That means that you would not set up the rudders to be exactly parallel to the boats centerline. Cabo used a nice trick to develop what they concluded as the optimum (least drag, best response) Rudder Toe-In amount by running the prototype at WOT with the Rudder Tie Bar removed to allow them to naturally find their equilibrium position, hence the Toe-In instruction you see.

How to measure - measure the centerline distance between the Rudder Posts, that is your "X". They want the Aft Trailing edge of the rudders to be "X" + 2-1/2", so since there are two rudders, divide 2-1/2" by 2 and each Aft Trailing edge should be 1-1/4" past parallel. You can confirm this by measuring the total distance between the centerline of the Aft Trailing Rudder Edge as noted = "X" + 2-1/2",

No, rudders shouldn't have an impact on it riding bow high, that's a combination of props (how much lift they have and number of blades), shaft angle and hull design.

Yours is a 43' Cabo? If it is the 43, this is exactly the Bertram 43 Hull without lifting strakes and designed by Dave Napier.

Typically, weight distribution is the greatest factor for static and running trim. That is what Naval Architects try to balance after the engines and shafts have been designed and put in place to a particular hull. Trim Tabs are used to manually correct any "imbalances' that are present in order to achieve acceptable Running Trim Angles. Most try to target about 3 degrees as near optimum.

So are you referencing the bow high condition running with full fuel in the cockpit tank? With or without trim tabs? What is the trim level at the dock before you cast the lines of? A trick you can do is to get one of those 0 - 10 degree bubble angle gages that sailboats have to show heel angles and mount one (fore and aft) next to the helm. I think West Marine carries them. https://www.westmarine.com/buy/sun-company--lev-o-gage-clinometers--P002_067_002_504?recordNum=28

Pick a baseline condition - ideally level the boat while at the dock so that the waterline is basically level, that is, the stern or bow is not sitting lower/higher than the reference water, it is truly parallel to the water. Install the Bubble Trim Gauge at level (Zero) and you can then monitor your Running Trim Angles. You can even use an electronic level as a temporary device. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Johnson-Electronic-Level-Inclinometer-40-6060/202704986

Now you can begin the game of checking the effects of trim tabs on running trim/rpm/speed. You should find a sweet spot where the Trim Tabs gain a bit of speed at a certain throttle setting, and this is really where your boat is running in a optimized mode. If the measured trim angle seems a bit high, there is probably not much you can do about it, except for getting into some real fun stuff - like adding a bit of hook to the hull bottom surfaces. this consists of glassing in a "wedge" of fiberglass that extends anywhere from 3/8" to 3/4" below the original transom edge, The shape is usually tapered from o' at about 12" forward of the transom to the desired depth below the original hull surface. These are just some of the tricks that builders use on prototypes before they go to production.

Given that rather long discussion, keep in mind that your 43' loves to have some bow up running trim while it eats those head seas up, and it is a much better situation than having a bow down condition which is typically adjusted with ballast or rocker (the opposite of hook) to the hull bottom.

Skip, they just seem to like to run that way. They also like the weight aft. Now, I know you always run yours a little slower, but I've always run them 80% load and perhaps it picks up the stern a little with more speed. BUT, I've found that they still like the trim tabs only halfway down for best speed, so it seems that hull just simply likes that running angle. I almost always trim a boat for speed/efficiency, unless it's rough enough that ride takes precedence. Also as you burn off fuel, you'll have to adjust tabs a touch periodically throughout the day. Keep notes on speed and fuel/water load and try it with a near empty water tank and a full one, since it's in the bow area. It has been a very long time and a lot of boats in between since I've run a 43'.

I'd pick a baseline for the trim gauge with full fuel and water.

No and most in South Florida do not charge by the day if the boat yard is doing all of the work or providing the guys doing all of the work.

Good info on rudder angle. I'm hauling the boat soon and am putting my list of items for inspection. I never realized the toe-in design as I just assumed the rudders were parallel to each other. I have a 40 Cabo convertible now, however I had a 1996 35 Cabo previous and had the rudders removed and the glands reworked. Looking at the attached photo they appear to be set up with some toe-in.

Yes, you need toe in