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40 open horn issues

Discussion in 'Luhrs Yacht' started by Joe McKairnes, Jun 11, 2022.

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  1. Joe McKairnes

    Joe McKairnes Senior Member

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    No horn. Only get 6V at the wires. If o disconnect it, I get 12.

    Is there a relay in circuit? Anyone know where it's located?
  2. Bucksh0t

    Bucksh0t Member

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    Reading voltage but low seems like a connection going bad. May just be the horn button. I would start there,
  3. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    OR,, the horn is bad and pulling B+ down. Put a light on the leads with horn disconnected and watch if B+ stays up or drops. If it drops, start looking for a bad crimp.
    You can always jump the switch with a screw driver to check there.
    Sam Wright likes this.
  4. Joe McKairnes

    Joe McKairnes Senior Member

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    Still chasing this... found that in not getting a solid 12v to the gown. It meters 12, but guessing not enough current...
  5. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    With the horn still connected or a light in it's place?
    An electric horn is just a voice coil that makes a this disk vibrate.
    If the disk does not vibrate (bugs, salt or rust), no sound but still a coil load that will still drop B+.
  6. Joe McKairnes

    Joe McKairnes Senior Member

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    Seems to be not enoght current.. it read 12, but doesn't work...
  7. Joe McKairnes

    Joe McKairnes Senior Member

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    If I connect 12v to it, it works.. something in the 12v path..
  8. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Ya didn't mention that..
    Then carry on;
    Ya got a bad wire or crimp somewhere.
  9. Joe McKairnes

    Joe McKairnes Senior Member

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    Yeah... but where??? Lol
  10. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Do you have a horn button on the tower and helm?
    Same poor results?

    Like you tried to say in post #4, Bad B- (grown).
    Run a fresh negative lead if you can,, from a known good negative bar.
  11. Joe McKairnes

    Joe McKairnes Senior Member

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    So, found out it's 2 problems! All dealing with connectors. 1 is not allowing 12V through to the switch. The other is from the switch to the horn. Thinking of getting rid of all the connectors and doing water proof butt connectors....
  12. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    IMO, shrink crimps should be SOP.
    For those in RosaLinda and Brother Carl (who hates my acronyms) , that is Standard Operating Procedure..
    Just ensure you crimp onto fresh & bright wires or all is counter productive. This includes replacing any black wire runs.
  13. Joe McKairnes

    Joe McKairnes Senior Member

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    Yup! Right on!
  14. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Senior Member

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    I presume you guys are talking about the marine grade heat shrink connectors? The ones with the heat activated adhesive that seals around the wire when you shrink them. Standard (non-marine) heat shrink doesn’t have the adhesive.
  15. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    That is what I'm typing about..:D:D
  16. Joe McKairnes

    Joe McKairnes Senior Member

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    Yes...I want a solid, waterproof connection!
  17. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Sadly, even when using marine shrink crimp connects, nothing is water proof. In our better dreams weather resistant may come to play well.
    With some grease, were just slowing the weather intrusion into the electrical connection down a little.
    Mother Nature always wins. We can just slow down her fight sometimes.

    Been fighting with that ***** for very many years now. She has fangs....
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2024
  18. Joe McKairnes

    Joe McKairnes Senior Member

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    Solved!
    The 12v the jumpers across the breakers has corrosion, so not solid 12v to the horn!

    Making a new harness next weekend!
  19. YachtForums

    YachtForums Administrator

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    Thank you for updating the thread, Joe. You just made Senior Status. Welcome to the old phart club!
  20. Joe McKairnes

    Joe McKairnes Senior Member

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    Just trying to help others.

    Thank you!