It varies and I see one gear different from the other as much as 20F, but I would say under 150F (not certain on your gear because you didn't provide the model number). Generally with gears, the cooler they run the better and I usually see them run somewhere between 100F-130F on the Detroits. The gears seem to run hotter on the newer electronic diesels and even over 150F.
I agree with CaptJ regarding the Detroit Gear Temp. I have capitol gears behind a pair of DDs and they run right around 100-110 degrees. I have one gear that sometimes likes to foam the oil (it is very strange, sometimes it foams it and sometimes it does not) When the gear oil gets too foamy it cant transfer the heat efficiently and the gear starts to heat up. gauge vigilance and an IR Temp gun with ER visits is a good thing....
Foam is caused by air getting into the fluid. If you have a remote mounted filter I'd check the lines carefully and any external lines to see if there's a place it's sucking air. It can also be caused by low fluid levels......
Bamboo, I agree, you should be able to touch the gears. I really like to use an IR temp gun and compare and monitor temps. Its a great way to detect an issue and monitor the engines. I also use it to ck the hvac, electric motors, and anything else CaptJ, I agree there must be a leak somewhere on the suction side. (if it were on the pressure side there would be oil everywhere) The strange thing is that sometimes it is fine for weeks or months and then it will foam. Pressure in the gear is fine. there is a 1 inch hose on the suction side from filter to gear that could be the issue. That hose will be changed on the next gear oil change. I do know that the gears that I have are very sensitive to oil levels: too much and it will foam, too little and it will foam. And foam is bad! I use SAE 30 in the gears and some have recommended switching to SAE 40 is the problem continues after the hose change. For now I just monitor the temp and oil and it seems to be operating WNL. I recently rebuilt the other gear because it was developing a shift delay and had low pressure. BTW, The bill was an emotional experience.....Im not looking to repeat that experience on the other side..........
After asking many times about common oil on a boat. I did decide to use the same oil in my DDC 12V71TIs and my TD 514 clutches. Since the DDC oil spec is CF-2 witch requires an anti foam spec, it was only natural to use it in my clutches. Gee, lots of hours and no problems. Also, if your clutch is cooled (heated) in the DDC oil cooler (by the engine coolant), your clutch oil temp could be near the engine coolant temp. Get rid of that foam. Get an IR gun and make sure it's really getting hot. ,rc
RC thanks for info, I have 671 TIBs, my gears coolers are cooled by raw water, which then goes to the inter cooler, and then to the heat exchanger and then out the exhaust. (im pretty sure the only coolant is in the block and main heat exchanger where the coolant is cooled by raw water, I don't think my coolant is used to cool anything else besides the block, oh yea I forgot, and the oil cooler) do you recommend 40 in the gears? I currently run straight 30 in the gears and 40 in the mains. Im pretty sure that all the oil is anti-foam.
If your sea water cooled, 30w vs 40w oil would depend some on your environment. In the New York area, 30w should be fine. Remember to look for that API rating CF-2 on the oil jug.
I have the DD badged Twin Disc gears behing my 12v92's. They typically run around 130 but sometimes up to 140 if cruising for long runs. When trolling for extended periods with the troll valves engaged I have seen temps as high as 154. However, I recently discovered how to lower the engine RPM when trolling so now with the engine running at 500 RPM when trolling (600 before) I have not seen a gear temp above 145.
I understand trolling valves result in a controlled clutch slip. Good oil is very important here. And , temp will go up with the extra friction slipping clutches offer. Slowing the rpm was a good idea. Question; Do you see any smoke when your done and throttle up & head home? Any extra slobber from the air boxes? ,rc
I see no noticeable smoke or added slobber after trolling. Unlike my last boat with CAT 3208T's that smoked like crazy after trolling for a few minutes. I have had several DD mechanics tell me it is a good idea to run the engines fairly hard for just a few minutes after trolling to make sure turbos get cleared good. I cruise for a bit to reach normal operating temps then usually bring them up to about 2200 RPM for just a few minutes then back down to cruise.