Outboard hydrofoils to stop porpoising?

2002 Mako 171 inshore center console. This is the low deadrise inland model with a T top. I figure good in the river and tender to our other boats.

Originally had a 60 or 90 Yam outboard. When I purchased it a year ago, it had a 2003 Merc 1.4L, 125 (2+2) on it. I finally got that running good and noticed a porpoising issue at high speed. The 125 was also bolted on one notch up and I often wanted to lower it back down.

Then I found another engine.

Just finished bolting on a 2.5L, 135 OptiMax. I felt the 125 was a little short on displacement picking up and moving out of the hole. Also, bolted lower like I wanted to with the 125. WOW,, Extra 1.1L does help A LOT.

Now, we are a lil faster over all, I can slow down and run the same before speed at less RPM and consume less fuel. Things are looking up. Extra displacement working here also.
I am pretty happy with the engine height. The anti-vent plate is just under the water when running. The drive case is hitting the water smoothly, cleanly and no spray coming up from it. IMO, they was it is supposed to be.

Of note; the newer engine is 100 pounds heavier back there.

So, tooling down the river, engine trimmed (tucked in) all the way, I’m watching the spray blow up from the chines. Lots of hull forward in the water, uh? Lets trim the OB out/up a bit to pick up the bow/hull. Make some speed.

That little porpoising issue we had, is now suddenly ugly and dangerous. I had to chop the throttle all back. I tried a few times more working the engine trim with the Lenco Trim-Tabs. Trim out, boat bounces like a rocking chair.

I know I have over powered the hull. Now I want to control it.

I have always been against the idea of bolting on hydrofoils to the anti-vent plate to any drive but now I am wondering if maybe the extra surface of the fin can offer some leverage and control over this now dangerous porpoising issue.

Stingray, Sport Marine and Davis all mention reducing porpoising but is this sales hype or do these thingies really work?

Looking forward to some thoughts and comments from the Forum.

Yes, Help me fix my blunder. I should of stayed in the bilges with the cast iron

Can you help me understand this please?
Above I mentioned I thought the 125 was mounted to high. Although water did (just) flow over the anti-vent plate.
I was thinking lowering the engine a notch would give the anti vent plate more foil action it self & better leverage to stop the porpoising I was already encountering with the 125.

Just thought of extra specs I did not mention at the top; 125 case was 4 1/4" wide. New case is 4 3/4" wide.
Used a variety of alloy and SS props on the 125.
So far, just the 17" pitch Merc Mirage Plus prop on the 135.

What props or features to look for when pursuing this lift effect in props?

I have to dive into my shop again (life challenging*), but may have a 19 or 21" pitch wheel.

* Shop still stacked with stuff from Storm Milton floods.

I have tried the already installed Lenco Tabs.
Oversized and fast response, I can push the bow down but ride/control is not to steady. Boat handles better all tucked in vs using tabs.
Fuel tank is full, center/forward. 2 x G27 batteries under the console.

There is a seat in front of the console. Next time out I can flood the area under this bow facing seat with water.

Currently back on the trailer replacing old (original?) clutch & throttle cables
.

I did install a Stingray SR fin this week.
New clutch and throttle cable replacement was a real PIA but oh so smooth & easy now.
Wife doesn't know about these new items,,, yet.

Any day now, looking forward to splashing the Mako and checking out this fin and flowscan install.
Also planning to experiment with flooding the live bait station under the front seat.