Found both port & starboard 24 v. ER blowers had rusted solid. Before installing the new ones checked the voltage on one side and found one wire with 12 volts and the other (both black) with 2 volts. Main 24 v. panel has solenoid from the 24 v. breaker also with 24 volts but only see one wire on its large output terminal. At the blower shouldn't one of the two wires be 24v and the other ground ? Unable to find a blower switch so I suspect there may only be an on-off thermostat switch of some sort in the ER although so far unable to find that. Don't blowers normally have an on-off switch ?
We have 2 x 2 blower sets. One set manually operated by a helm switch. The second set thermostatically operated. There are still two different blower motors available for the 24Vd assemblies; Intermittent run and continuous run. When run in parallel (two blowers on same switch), you may see two different DCv levels at each blower. The blower motor drawing more current will have lower lower DCv. Bilge blowers are another most abused option an a boat. After 20 years, our 32Vdc thermostatically operated blowers failed. Sized yet the breaker did not trip. 32Vdc continuous run motors are no longer available. Another option I moved over to our 24Vdc tap. New 24Vdc continuous run, thermostatically controlled blowers now work like a champ. Our blower thermostat was factory mounted on the overhead, center line, near the aft bulkhead. Honeywell stamped on it. The price of this stuff is now dark comical. If your heart and checkbook can survive the extra abuse, order the 24Vdc continuous run blowers.
Already got two new ones; one the exact same overpriced Jabsco due to its location being fit for a mouse didn't want to even attempt any installation modification. The other side gets the larger one that cost a lot less. No idea if their continuous run but the larger one has a multi year warranty and appears a better type motor. Since removal of the old blowers, the breaker no longer blows so that's some progress. Will have to conduct a methodical search for the thermostat and dig into the ships wiring diagram, although I already know some pages are dated from years before boat was built and show 32 volts when mine is only 24 with two step down converters, one on the bridge for a few electronic items and another in the ER that I've been unable to find what, if anything, runs off it, so not expecting much help from diagrams.
Same CFM as the Jabsco one already purchased but mine does not appear to be their continuous run model, nor was the OEM ones Bertram installed. The other one, SeaFlo brand I purchased has a higher, 320 CFM rating and instead of one year, has a 4 year warranty but 2 of the 4 flange mount slots are off about a 1/2 inch, the intake instead of 4" is 6" and I was told a better type motor so once I get them installed will see if one holds up better. Last year I replaced a Jabsco macerator pump, also with a SeaFlo brand for a fraction of the cost and its been doing just fine so only time will tell how this blower does in comparison. Brand new was only $70.00.
SeaFlo is all made in china…. I would never use that crap on my boat. Not that jabsco makes high quality product…
Not a clue where junsko is made but we work with and purchase what we can afford. I don't see any other non pac-rim brands either. Have you discovered a non junk mfg?
Unfortunately there's not much not made in China these days and a lot of what is sold here is junk, however this brand appears to sell quality for around 1/3 of the price of Jabsco; that's probably also now made either in China or Mexico.
I haven’t replaced the blowers on my 53 hatt but leaning towards 120v blowers since we pretty much always run the gen. And once back at the dock we re on shore power anyway. More options although indeed most are made by the chicoms.
I left the original DCv blower design intact. But years ago I did add a house sized 8" air handler, 230Vac blower in the E R. The original E R for/port air-in 5" hose ends just before the low side of this blower. Blower off, natural air flow drafts around and thru this blower. From the ACv breaker panel, blower on draws mostly outside air into the E R. Even-though the DCv blowers are thermo controlled and do draw some hot air off the top of the E R, this monster compresses the E R and forces the hot air out, thru the hull side air/boxes and the deck vents. It has really helped when working in that ER when it's hot. After a long summer day operating, helps cool the E R down faster for an evening on ACs. Just don't open that floor hatch over the engines at this time.
Anyone know what this nasty looking thing at ER ceiling is ? Appears to have a 14/2 wire going into the box. Maybe some type of thermostat to control the blowers ?
Way different looking from my blower control. Oh, My control is common on some other Bertrams I have worked on, that were so equipped (not all had it). I think it was a common part when installed. Yours sure looks like some kind of heat sensor. Center line aft in the E R? From the look of it's installation, I'm not calling that factory. Maybe a replacement by a previous owner. Time to start following wires. Hopefully somebody will recognize it and call out a brand or model spec. Is that really Greenfield (flexible metal conduit) running to it? Very top left of picture. Or more of that plastic flex seen below that gizmo.
It's all plastic and yes the "gizmo" is center just inside the entrance from the cockpit. Was going nutty this afternoon with strange readings till I discovered my multimeter was howling for the trash bin.
In a pinch 5 years ago I installed a seaflo fresh water pump, bypassed the internal pressure switch as I thought it was under rated, it's still going strong with zero issues
I went to 3 x 6-inch inline fans 120v, 395 CFM. I use one on each side to pull in fresh air. I use one port side for forced discharge. I find the setup gives me good flow as well as flexibility for forcing air through the room.
Most boats have run have blowers blowing air in too cool the ER. That works well although the ER needs to be sealed so hot air doesn’t gets pushed into living quarters. but, blowers pulling outside air probably get corroded faster
Evidently it's a common Honeywell fan control for land buildings with an internal N/O spst switch that controls a solenoid in the 24 V. salon panel. Looks like its designed to mount on the outside an air duct with the probe inserted. Highly doubt original. Inside of the "gizmo" doesn't look bad but seeking a better replacement that like this one does not need an additional source of power aside from the 24 volts that it also switches. Maybe Danny at High Tide has something.
Mine is Honeywell also but does not have that probe. Also something that needs to be in mind; Our blowers after (or before) this also goes thru an other solenoid. The fire control (halon discharge or flame detector) turns these blowers off in case of fire or discharge by this solenoid.
With the 2 wires (ground & 24 volts) for the Honeywell joined the solenoid gets energized and has 24 v. at its output terminal however the ends to the blowers only have 3.5 volts. Ground is good so suspect the solenoid's internal contact may be going bad thus preventing enough amperage. I saw the Fireboy in a wiring diagram but not sure the one in the Bertram "book" is for mine but recall its terminals being clearly marked so its on the list to also check. Interesting how your Honeywell has no probe. Are you sure its turning blowers on when ER is warmed up as all of the ones I found on several sites have either a 5, 8, or 11" probe. When working on the ER alarm I used a heat gun to test the sensors but this thing was never checked.