Sweet and clean. A thought; Your water injection to the shaft log seal assembly, that street 90 and nipple, Is that brass or bronze? Maybe something to ad (to the bottom of your work list) to check them out.
The water injection fitting is bronze. When I haul the boat both shaft glands are going to be removed as I’m going with PSS seals.
The ones Cabo used were good seals, could re-seal those. Make sure the bronze fittings are clear from time to time and don't have growth in them.
Do you mean the ones in the above photos, or are those different from what Cabo used originally? If the former, based on what I can see I wouldn't waste any money for re-sealing them.
The mechanical seals in the above photo are the original from Cabo. They are in decent condition, however the stbd one overheated due to scale blockage in the cooling water line. I have good water flow now and they are both preforming well. I’m not sure of any damage caused when water flow was restricted. We will see when I haul the boat out later this year.
Yes, Chatfield made them, but they were very stout/solid housings seals. Solid cast admiralty Bronze. They're structurally sound and nothing that bead blasting wouldn't clean right up. Or could buy new ones for about $500 a piece. Yes, you would have to split the coupler from the motor to reseal them. Try to find a set of Tide seals that last 17-25 years. They rarely had failures, out of several hundred Cabo's I've dealt with over the years, I only had one that needed to be resealed. OP states one overheated due to cooling water blockage and it's not even leaking. They look like they've never been serviced. If the seal does fail, the lip can be converted to a gland and you can put a ring of old school shaft packing material in to stop it from dripping until the boat can be hauled. Blue Water Shaft Seal, Chatfield Marine, CEL, dripless, bronze, NZ
I never suggested Tides Marine seals, mostly because they are lip seals - as well as these Chatfield things are. In principle, I prefer face seals, like the PSS that the OP is planning to fit. Or, for life lasting, 100% rubberless stuff, the Fluiten seals. Though these are only available in large-ish sizes, possibly not down to the OP shafts size, IDK. And pretty sure you can't buy them for $500 a piece, anyway! Anyway, it would indeed be remarkable if such seal withstood overheating with no leaks, but I don't think it did. In this other recent thread, the OP said that the overheated one is indeed leaking under way. As an aside, it's interesting to see on the very same Chatfield website that they also produce what they call "zinc spinners", which are almost identical to the zincs that I previously suggested - as opposed to the traditional shaft zincs with their drawbacks. But we've done that to death by now.
Understood - no shaft zincs are going on my 40 Cabo either. New shaft brushes were installed which are common bonded to the transom zinc.