a 44 pounder on a 50 footer is too small. Way too small. Right now I have 60th Davis on my 53 footer and it’s ok but just because we don’t anchor overnight that much. As soon as we get more time to use the boat more, the Davis is going up for sale and I m outing a 110 Bruce/claw. i ve used 176 lbs Bruce/Claw anchors for 15 years from Nantucket to Gtown Bahamas on 70 and 84 feet skylounge (high windage). I can count on the fingers of one hand the number of times they failed to set or dragged. Best thing about the bruce is that they pretty much fit any pulpit and are ridiculously cheap. So cheap that folks make fun of them … it s not about the anchor type, it s about size. Yes size really matter. I did one trip to the Exumas on the 116 i run now and struggled the whole time with a 200lbs Poole. Could barely get the thing to hold using 225’ of chain in 10/12’ of water. I upgraded the **** thing for a 400lbs Poole and now we re holding like we should. size matters.
I agree with Pascal that 44# is too small. I use a 72# cheapo CQR style knock off on my 54’ with 100’ of 3/8 chain. I anchor in 300’+ for bottom fishing and often in 80-120’ water for overnight. I get conditions from rocky, sandy, muddy, you name it. And almost always swing 180 degrees with tide/wind changes overnight. My set up works well for me.
Nylon backed for a few more hundred feet. We did that on an old Striker. Nylon lots cheaper and weighs less. In the locker, the chain sat on top of the nylon. No chain contact with the alloy hull.
I've done the same thing, 200ft of chain attached to 150ft of nylon floatable. Gives me 350ft. If I have to cut, it floats so I can go back to retrieve it.
that would be an interesting accomplishment I have 100’ of chain and 600’ of 8 plait rope spliced to the chain.
I agree a 44lb Vulcan is undersized. It’s worked fine for me this season but I’m typically anchoring in less than 20 feet in a good holding bottom with an all chain rode. So it’s never really been tested. My preference would be a 73 lb Vulcan but it simply won’t fit in the slot in the pulpit and also is very heavy for the surprisingly flimsy pulpit Viking put on the 44 Motoryacht. Viking really dropped the ball on providing a pulpit that will allow adequate ground tackle for a cruising yacht. I’m still considering my options for modifications to allow a bigger anchor. I plan to cruise from the Chesapeake south to the Bahamas a few years from now and need to work something out by then. But for the time being in the Chesapeake the 44 is Vulcan has done fine and never slipped even when holding several heavy boats in a raft up in 20+ know winds.
Have to agree with you on your prospective. The bow is just not set up for serious heavy weather anchoring. I wouldn't even consider not using a bridle with that pulpit.
If I decide to keep my 54 Viking I am going to rethink the pulpit. I saw another 54 Viking with no pulpit and one of those stainless plates that the anchor sets against. I would have to redo my railing among other things but I would like to get rid of the pulpit as I don’t think it is all that stout. I also don’t anchor without the bridle.
Getting rid of the pulpit is one of the options I’m considering. That would also knock just enough off my LOA to let me move from a 55’ slip to a 50’ slip. Save me about $800 a year.
Wanted to circle back to the bridle discussion. The mantis bridle, at ~$500 for a 50+ boat, seems absurdly over priced. I was thinking just a standard 25’, 3/4” double braided dock line with a chain hook in the middle would do the trick. Loop goes around one bow cleat, other end gets cleated on the other side, pulling the chain up until it goes slack between the bridle chain hook and windlass. Could always add chafe protection for the areas that see the most rubbing. Most of the diy articles online seem to be a bit more complicated. Am I missing something or would this simple set up be sufficient?
I made my own Y bridle. Just purchased the Mantis chain hook. You want stretch so 3/4" twisted line is what we used for ours and some of our customers rigs. Braided will not stretch. I also mad a lazy guys rig, 1" twisted, single lead, with the Mantis hook. It goes out on the last 20 feet of chain rode, lately thru the pulpit with the chain. Eye splice hook to a deck cleat next to the windlass. The nylon takes tension, the chain sags a bit, The bow cabin is church quiet. On retrieval, the chain rode is pulled up approx 20', the Mantis hook released from the chain rode just before the windlass, not having to crawl or reach over the bow to release, then all else is hauled aboard. All thru the pulpit. As far as the anchor goes, We still luv our 85# Bruce.
Interesting and sounds super easy. Problem is I don’t have a cleat that would allow for a reasonably straight run down the pulpit and through the roller. That’s why I was thinking a bridle attached to the 2 bow cleats. But then we’ll have to reach under the pulpit to attach the chain hook. Will have to think through that geometry a little more.
In my mind, the windlass should not take the brunt of holding the weight of the boat to the set anchor. Other have argued with me and that's fine. I have 2 storm cleats on my for-deck, behind and slightly out side of my new Lofrans windlass (large Ideal windlass previously). I also have two gunnel cleats forward as typical bow cleats. I use one of these storm cleats for my lazy guys, single lead rig. Earlier in this thread, a concern of the pulpit holding the boat at anchor was a concern. The pulpit caving in / breaking down. In a storm I would use our Y bridle for more strength and to help my pulpit. You may have to consider this for yours here also. For a big storm, I hope to NOT be there, But plenty of backup chain, nylon and Fortress anchors are on board. I have the cleats for all if needed.