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bedding vs caulking

Discussion in 'Technical Discussion' started by petrel, Apr 4, 2021.

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  1. NYCAP123

    NYCAP123 Senior Member

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    Good for you, but I can't help notice that the OP is doing his now and we've had at least 4 or 5 others here in the past who've done the job. Some are more particular than others I guess. And you said you replaced a section. I'm assuming that you didn't run into 5200 or I might have heard you cursing all the way up here.
  2. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    As I said Irma removed that 20’ of rubrail for me... I guess 5200 of used was no match for a hurricane :).

    but you have a point. Some builders use hollow or even alum run rail which can look like crap after a few years.
  3. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    I just redid mine, Ocean Yachts, I cleaned out the hull/deck joint and sealed that with 5200 around the entire boat. Also sealed up the old screw holes from the old rail.
    I used a TACO rubrail white rubber ''J'' type which runs just under the bottom edge of the hull up and over the joint to the flat part start of the deck. I ran a bead of 5200 centered behind the new white rubber part and screwed that on at the predrilled holes. Done. No caulk to be seen and the rubberrail makes a sung fit. Any caulk that came out is wiped up.

    Then over that goes on the S/S rubrail which sets in a grove on the white rubber rail. You screw that in and through the with rubber rail centered , which is already caulked before, and run the screw through and into the hull/joint. No need to caulk the S/S rail as the white thick rubber seals up tight around the second set of screws. No caulk needed, nor should it be seen. No leaks.
  4. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    it's actually not hard to remove 5200 from a flat stainless rub rail or most others. The rubrail is a nice flat surface and you can get a razor knife right behind it easily and run it down the backside of the rubrail and it cuts off pretty easily compared to 5200 in other areas.
  5. petrel

    petrel Member

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    That was what I thought, until I spoke to Viking.

    The old rub rail was in great condition, it was just discolored. It did not look good against the new paint.
  6. Worthy vessel

    Worthy vessel Member

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    6A0A72D7-8081-43BC-A75B-C57855DD4E15.jpeg What caulking is best to reseal joints like this on the deck?
  7. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    I life Life Seal (NOT Life Caulk)
  8. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    5200 doesn't like UV. The proper installation, to me, would be to bed with 5200, clean the residue well, then beauty bead the exposed edge with a UV sealant of choice, be it Sika or Boat Life, or whatever you like and will maintain going forward. The beauty bead trims the detail and also provides the UV protection for the 5200. I like 5200 for that bedding specifically because it makes the joint permanent. But did the yard leave that 5200 exposed, or did they use a different material for the beauty bead, or did they use a different bedding altogether?

    The 5200 under UV won't fail, but it will discolor.
    TahoeJohn likes this.
  9. petrel

    petrel Member

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    FWIW the yard bedded the rubrail with Sikaflex then did a thin "fillet" of Life caulk on top. The life caulk has already discolored and begun to peel up. Once it has all let go, I will just touch up the sikaflex and do without the caulk.
  10. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    Ive found life caulk to be garbage. Life SEAL however is an excellent product that I use a lot for things like that and it does last.