After gluing up the Starboard side similarly to the Port... The transom board was dry fitted. We built a new hatch cover for the transom door out of teak. the old one was badly water damaged and deformed. That new piece was wedged into place and temporarily secured. We used wax Fillets to fill the seams (Hinge side and inboard side) in this new door hatch where we didn't want the epoxy to stick when gluing up the covering board. The hinge was also preliminarily laid out and a new stainless backing plate for the hinge was fiberglassed into place. There is a pretty good crown across the transom so lots of clamps were needed. We left a big notch at the quarter on both the Side boards and the transom board that enabled us to pull the seam tight in that area. Again... lots of ooze to chase for about an hour after clamping down tight. It was dark by the time I stopped cleaning up Oozing glue! After removing the clamps, the covering board at the transom door hatch was cut with a hand saw. A new coaming board was cut and fitted to match the existing (painted) coaming boards on both sides of it. All coaming boards will be primed, faired and painted as a final step. All overhangs were trimmed appropriately and block sanded. Surface got a quick preliminary sand as well Coming up next - Hinge will be fitted and rub rail removal and installation will commence. Stay tuned!
Barney- Awesome looking work. Did you re-use any of the rub rail material or replace with new? I had some broken off my starboard bow and I'm looking for new to match it with. The white stuff not the metal.
I replaced it all with new and my old stuff was in pretty rough condition and I think all of it went in the dumpster already. I was told that they don't still make the identical plastic rail that was on the boat from the factory in 1989. The stuff I used has almost identical overall dimensions...The difference is that it has a recessed groove that the stainless sits in which makes the stainless about flush with the white plastic once complete. The plastic rail part number that we used is RVO - 105 - check out the rubrails.com website.
Sounds good. I was also able to find a place called integritymarinecorp.com that makes replacement rub rail material for Post
Replaced the worn out real teak cockpit deck & covering boards with white Awlgrip nearly 2 years go. Now considering Flexiteek and noticed your old post. How's it been holding up ?
I sold the boat and bought a 50’ post. I’m sure those covering boards have many years of life left in them for the new owner! Good luck with your project.
So far the Flexiteek is holding up really well and I am very happy with it. I extended it farther up the gunwale too. It still looks great and is easy to clean. I use an electric 1850 psi electric pressure washer to clean it a couple times a season and so far that works really well. Otherwise typical hosing off of fish blood and slime is all we've done. I did discover one of the Halibut bait scents we use that is pink in color will stain it though. But a light sanding got rid of the stain at least to where it isn't noticeable.