Can’t get my props off

As much as I don’t usually advocate for this, sounds like time to break out the torch and apply some heat to use the delta in thermal expansion to break her loose.

Then have the hubs drilled for a Prop Smith tool and never face this this problem again.

https://www.propsmith.com/

https://www.vicprop.com/store2/blog/inboard-propeller-removal-and-installation

When prop shops bore the taper into the prop hub or some times try to clean up the bore, just a micro amount of chatter will leave some lines in the hub. Like a course rifled-bore. I hate this when it happens, I have refused propellers when discovered quick enough.
Thru my years, these wheels can really get a grip on the shafts taper. It takes work, a dam strong tool, lots of heat and an ice block or ice bag sitting on the shaft leaning against the strut. Hopefully saving the cutlass bearing (usually not) but keeping the shaft cooler than the prop's hub.
Your on the hill, fix this issue now. A diver will never be able to get them off.

You are heating the prop hub to expand it, has to be done with the right torch, but it is an effective last resort. Just like Ralph says, plan on new cutlass bearings and sending the shafts out for clean-up and checking the taper.

You are heating the prop quickly, B A Rosebud torch at least. The bronze has to heat up and expand quicker that the shaft.
Just sitting there with a pussy lil bic lighter is not getting anything done. The ice bag on the shaft does help but it all has to happen fast, tension already on the wheel and a safety chain to keep it from launching off towards somebody's leg or toes.
Better yard folk know all of this... If not, it's not a better yard.

On the big fishing boats, we just put a small dot of gelignite behind it and blow the F**ker off.

There were times I was looking for something like that in the old yard.
I understand that can not be done out of the water, it needs the shock of the un-compressable water against the wheel.

Yep, but remember to keep the nut on the end of the shaft or the divers could make Pay-Day a whole lot more expensive.

Haven't tried hydraulics to remove? Had a set replaced in the water in Coinjock, 9pm one night...diver tooling as I ate my prime rib...they wouldn't budge. Hydraulic wedge was used, and they popped off at about 3000 pounds. Prime rib was delicious.

What kind of shop or yard are you dealing with? I ve seen it in the past... yards used to dealing with smaller boats often lack the tools or experience to deal with larger wheels

a prop smith is a must have on board.

How many blades do your wheels have? Do the blades over lap and prevent rigid jaws from gripping the prop hub?

The video is HERE

Yes, that kind of setup with a port-a-power puck between the shaft end and plate, like THESE guys have. I would forgo the hammer option and try to get two large rosebud oxy acetylene torches on it, one on each side. Try to get the heat in an area away from the puller rods, lest they warm up enough to stretch.
Don't forget the safety chain . The props get rather damaged when they fly off and land on the ground. If you can have a prop nut on along with clearance for the puller rods, that's better than a chain. It depends on the size of nut and hole spacing.
Been through this several times on larger yachts I've run, and as you said; deliver heat quickly. Done with enough fast heat, the shaft won't even get very warm behind the cutless. Haven't melted a bearing with this method yet.

If they were already removed once, they weren't installed correctly the last time they removed them which is why you have the problems you have now. Either the key ways are too tight, and/or the props were not lapped to the shafts. Check key way fit in both prop and shaft and massage the keyway a bit, always lap the props to the shaft (spinning them on the shaft without the keyways with valve grinding material).