So I suspect this is a question that is not the brightest , but can I flush my A/C units after the racor, but before for the magnetic pumps, or do I need to gets to the out bound hose??
Rabies?? Or do you mean strainer? The easiest way to descale is usually by disconnecting the hose on the outlet of the pump and returning the cleaning mix from the discharge hoses. This way you get the whole system incl the discharge lines. But it also depends on the layout of the system. I m not a fan of using the cleaning mix in the pump
I'm not a fan of circulating the cleaning mix through the pump either. But I've seen some A/C outfits circulate the TRAC stuff through the strainer, pump, and everything for 8+ hours.
What is safe? Our chiller mfg says Trac Barnacle Buster and 1" chlorine tablets will corrode cupronickel tubing.
I use Bromine tablets, NOT chlorine tablets. Before Trac, lots of techs descaled chillers with muriatic acid which is way harsh. Trac claims that it is safe to use and is what I see a lot of A/C techs using nowadays. The Dometic chillers now have titanium sea water coils to fight erosion. But what else are you going to clean them with?
BB is supposed to be less corrosive than muriatic acid I guess it should be ok in March pumps since there is only one o ring on the cover. I would not use it with metal impeller pumps
I meant bromide tablets, most techs use Trac and they claim the same as Rydlyme. I don't know what else to use that would do the job and claim to not harm the metal.
Says BB uses phosphoric acid which is fairly mild. Never ran BB though a pump, but why not use it on metal impellers?
Metal impellers like in Cruisair branded pumps or Scott pumps are pretty thin and eventually corrode and erode away. I d be reluctant to expose them to any chemical
I'm not so worried about the impellors as much as I am worried about the rubber or nitrile pump seals.
I purchase BB concentrate. Works for most of my needs. It's still greatly reduced and will not fry your hands (much) of kill the copper. When I really need a molten pile of couperious copper, I get the muriatic acid. Also called Hydrochloric acid.
FWIW, I've used both Rydlyme and Barnacle Buster. Both worked well, no visible sign of related corrosion. (Although if there has been some ill effect, it likely wouldn't be visible -- to me -- anyway.) I injected solution starting at a flush valve (just after the thru-hull), through the sea strainer, through the AC pump, through the ACs... and then overboard via the AC raw water discharge thru-hulls. Since it wasn't easy to capture and recirculate, I injected until the system was full, let it rest awhile, injected some more (flushing the previous load), repeated that a few times. Works better if the sea strainer is cleaned first and the circulation system has already been flushed with fresh water. -Chris
This product works very well and does not damage any metals. You can get it in concentrate or regular. Marine Descaler by Hammerhead by Bright Bay. https://www.bottompaintstore.com/cl...ml/marine-descaler-by-hammerhead-p-12373.html
About 6 years ago while at Stuart, Fl bought a product from a locally, "Triton Marine engine descaler." Think they went out of business, sounds like the same product. Used it on my 3412's, cleaned the HE's while there at the dock. The tech said no acid and you could leave in place for a couple of days without metal damage. Thanks for the post, if no acid it will be my choice.
The best thing, the 34XX HEs were rock solid and IMO; oversized, not penny pinched. Any air cooler and HE that Cat has put together since has had problems bringing their latest service statement; replacing Air Coolers per calendar time vs hours. IMO, this is BS.
Ralph, our 3412's were great engines. The HE's had a lot of capacity, never had a temp issue. I'm with you on the aftercooler replacement change. They did not do their customers any favors cleaning every 2 years and replacing every 6 years, no hours mentioned. I was told they made the change because of extended warranty claims. Bought a pair for our 3406's last summer, but they needed replacing, the PO had neglected them for years. Oops, got off subject.
I had to undergo a warranty rebuild on a 2-3 year old C32 because the aftercooler leaked. I know several 2008 +/- 1 year C18's that had to have a major because an aftercooler leaked. It is a known issue and a problem.