I had three new systems installed two years ago and all has been fine. I ran the salon unit a few days ago then turned it off. When I returned yesterday, the screen was blank. I tried resetting it but no go. Checked the main unit (for the salon) in the engine room for loose connections but everything was tight, no wiggles or obvious gremlins to be seen and I reset all three a/c system breakers. Any idea where to look next? Thanks
Since you mentioned the ER I assume you have splits It also depends on which controls you have but usually you will have a phone style cable going from the condenser in the ER to the display. They uses phone jack type plugs which may get corroded. Check that. Also, pull that control panel and swap with one of the other three. If the other control works then the issue is on the proprietary control board for that condenser
I recently dealt with the exact same issue. It was the "Phone Jack" connection at the touch pad. Disconnected, wiped the end and reconnected, problem solved. Local shop walked me through it my phone.
There should be a trim ring around the touch pad. It may be attached by a couple of screws or it could simply snap on. Once the ring is removed, you will see the connection. Hopefully it's as simple as that.
Got it. It was a plastic connector with two female receptacles where two phone wires connect (or plug) together (for lack of the proper term) that Controll the condenser from the panel. See, ask dumb questions & you’ll figure it out yourself
Lol. Yeah it pays to read replies once I had that issue issue and discovered the builder had used one of these connectors to extend the cable and it had corroded.
Yep Pascal, these guys are not using what might be called marine grade connectors. Btw, I always read replies. My phone didn’t refresh the page when I went back on and I didn’t see Capt. Cole’s reply till I posted again. Thanks to both of you for your replies. YF knowledge always nails the problems!
This is what I love about this site. Anytime I have had an issue and posted the problem, within minutes I receive helpful replies. What a great resource.
Personally sometimes I type a question and just typing it and putting it on (e-)paper causes me to find the answer..
I agree with Capt Cole. As a relatively new yacht owner (2 years), I've gained so much wisdom and knowledge by reading almost every thread on this site on a regular basis. Every time my mechanic comes out to my boat, it's at least a couple hundred of dollars and often stretches into the thousands so I'm very grateful to learn from y'all (I'm from Nashville) so that I can do some of this stuff myself. Cheers to all!
Replacing 4 cruisair reverse cycle ix/heat systems and wondering if anyone can help with general pricing I should expect, putting in newer systems or trying to repair what is broke? Buying a boat as is/where is and expecting to replace the ac units but think off on our budget.. ANy feedback helps.. thanks
Can’t give you any feedback with the ridiculously limited info you gave us. What boat, size, age... what size units... 9k BTUs, 16k... or bigger ? Splits or self contained?
We replaced two 17-year-old 16K BTU Marine Airrrr Vector Compact units with new 16K BTU Dometic DTK units (an evolution from when Marine Airrrr introduced them as "Vector Turbo" units)... about $3300 each, installed. -Chris
That's a well known possibility, but the fact that you are typing on a keyboard or a mobile device is just incidental. It's rather the fact that when you think of how to explain a problem to someone else, your viewpoint changes vs. the "usual" sequence that you are following when trying to solve the problem yourself. It's this change of mindset that can trigger new ideas. And this has more chances to happen when you are not a teacher by trade. If you are, your mindset tends to be always along the lines of "how to explain" rather than "how to solve".
Thanks for the reply. 78 hatteras, 1998 - 2(16k), 2, 9k we think.. split system. The ctm self containted systems are what they recommend but would you have to install new air lines to replace the split systems? RM Modulating Condensing Units Capable of Cooling 5 Zones.... It needs a new salt ac pump and one system down.. rebuild the other 3 or go with 4 new ctm and pipe the lines and start new.... Want to optimize with battery bank and solar/wind/gen inputs.. Any feedback on ac conversion and what going to expect? Thanks, edad
I wouldn’t go with self contained on a 78 footer. I know it is the cheapest solution but as quiet as they have become you still will hear the compressors in the room. You also need to run the sea water lines to each unit with longer runs. Then when you need to sell the boat it will affect value. usually the air handlers last a long time so they should still be good to go. The condensers can usually be repaired by putting new compressors. I m sure the gas lines are still in great shape, especially on a Hatteras. That would be the best way to do it while maintaining functionality and quality Are you sure you only have 4 units on a 78 footer? That seems very low On my old Hatteras 53, I had 5 spilts which were failing. For a while I used a new self contained in the master, mounted in a closet, and I hated it. Too loud. I bit the bullet, removed everything and installed a pair of chillers with 5 air handlers. This is the best way to go without a doubt. The only difficult part is running the larger insulated water lines. On some boats it can nearly impossible. On others it s pretty easy. In my case, I installed the chillers in the port Engine room and have very short water line runs to the air handlers. Master is right behind the ER... salon ACs are above the ER and the runs to the forward rooms was very short as well. 3 years, total for the equipment was about $25k. I did the install myself since the chillers are precharged. Took me about 60 hours. I used Flagship Marine as their stuff is a lot more simpler than Cruisair without proprietary electronics. Off the shelf relays and thermostats. Love it.
I'd stay with a split system, and replace all of it. The freon is now R410 and wouldn't re-use the old copper lines, air handlers or anything. Self contained are noisier and live a shorter lifetime and you're going to have to run thicker water lines to them than the copper freon lines, so will have to probably enlarge holes throughout the boat.
Back to the phone jack type control cable connects. I have found the weight of the wire constantly pulling on the connection will cause issues. Then every pot-hole you hit pulls on that connect even more. Try to ad some strain relief to the signal cable and you may never have to visit this issue again.
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