Hello folks , I own a 1995 Carver 440 Aft cabin, just recently my starboard tank started leaking bad, I think they are aluminum tanks, anyway to replace this tank it will cost around $25,000 do to the location and accessibility, I did get to transfer fuel to the port side, anyway i used 2 50 gallon trash cans with water in them to balance the boat. So here is my question, how can I run both my 318 Cummins Diesels off just one tank? It doesn't appear i have any lines or valves to turn to allow this. The only line is the fuel transfer with a small pump that runs from one side to the other.. Please Help!!
Some boats you can run both motors off of one side, but the boat has to have the valves in order to do so. I'm guessing yours probably does not and one engine draws and returns to one tank, and the other draws and returns to the other tank. If you replace the tank, plan on doing both tanks as the port tank most likely is not far behind the starboard tank. No way to repair existing tank, it will just leak again.
i have been in contact with a company in Florida that offers military grade fuel bladders, you install in the existing tank for around $2500.00 . And i dont believe Ins. will pay for any of this so I really want to be able to run both engines off 1 tank first, till I can bank some money.
Why woudl insurance pay for tanks on a 25 year old boat? Aluminum tanks in mass production boats often fail earlier than that, unfortunately Marine tanks have baffles in them to prevent fuel from sloshing around in rough waters so you can’t put bladders in them If you want to run one tank you will have run feed hose from the transfer pick up to your engine, assuming the pick up tube is low enough. Then you need to run a new hose from the engine to the tank for return. Teeing into the other engine hoses is unlikely to work as they are probably too small to support both engines. $25000 sounds like a lot of money, even if an engine has to come out to get to the tank.
You can get someone to add the necessary fuel lines and valves to run both engines off one tank. This is a nice option to have as a back up solution for many fuel issues. As Capt J states you have to plumb both the supply and return lines. I would recommend you get a professional to do the work. Running both engines off one tank will continually create a balance problem plus you will be carrying extra weight for balance. I second what Capt J said about the other tank, it may be ready to give way. There are bilge sensors to detect oil in the bilge water to prevent overboard discharge.
I have had 3 contractors come look at my situation, the reason for the large cost is because to get the tanks out they need to cut a hole in the side of the boat to remove it, which is cheaper than taking up the floor and removing the bridge. Capt. Fred i will get a pro to do this, i plan on putting a cheap bladder in the bad tank to hold water for balance, and a pump to level when needed. It amazes me the design of these saddle tanks and the poor accessibility to them, i had to remove the exhaust to find the leak. Break Out Another Thousand +
Capt. Pascal the baffles would also be cut out in order to put a bladder in it, i have already been in contact with Carver about this, thanks guys for your quick response.
And what is the point of spending any money to put a water bladder in a bad fuel tank??? The other fuel tank isn't going to be in any better condition and the pickup in 1 tank isn't large enough to supply both engines. The boat will always list depending on how much fuel you add or use from the port tank. Why couldn't you remove the floor and take the tank right out of the salon door and put it in that way? I've seen the old tanks cut out and a couple of the same size tanks but shorter put in and linked together. Their has to be a much easier way to do the job properly.
A repair like you propose makes the resale value drop to almost nothing. That may or may not matter for your circumstances, but something to consider. Water ballast is an empty solution, an inverter solution with more batteries are better than fluid ballast and better for resale. Keep on looking for contractors who can offer a better solution.
So you d have to cut the top of the tanks, somehow be able to reach inside to cut the baffles. Then put some material to protect the bladders from getting damaged by the rough edges. Have you considered cutting out the old tank and see if you could fit two or even three smaller tanks in that same space? Could save you the costs of the massive surgery.
Do you know how difficult it is to cut out the baffles out while the tank is in the boat, let alone out of the boat!? You will never get it all out , and it will be to sharp where you cut no matter what. Pop goes the water bag...it's a waist of money. Drain/pump/clean out all the fuel. Plug all the welded in fuel fittings, patch the leak with marine tex or silicone , what ever, and fill it with water. There you have your counter weight back....cap off the deck fill to with a ''Water'' cap. Sounds like you found where it's leaking ? You may be able to weld on a piece of aluminum to repair the leak...but you really need to get to the tank to do that. The entire tank may not be all bad. Years ago I repaired my Father's 400 gallon steel fuel tank on a 55' Pacemaker MY. The tank was under the master stateroom king bed aft just sitting on the bottom of the boat and when you ran the boat , or she had some water in her( Lol was a wood boat) The water over the years rusted areas of the bottom and sides out to where the tank would weep out some fuel. The rust only came up the tank around 2 or 3 inches all around. The rest of the tank was still fine. I/ We were able to clean out the tank flip it over in the state room and I welded on a 12ga. 304 Stainless Steel bottom pan 8'' deep to the ''good steel'' on the old tank . Problem solved. It out lasted the boat, btw. Boat builders, btw, put all that crap into the hull/boat before they lower the deck and cabin on. It's quick and easy for them. They don't try to cram things in when the boat is entirely assembled. Which is what we have to deal with as owners. Check cleared, warrantee is over....they( the boat builders) don't give a Toot! Production boat builders only build them so good.... Insurance won't pay a dime..btw.
Aluminum or steel ? You should find out, so you know..not what others tell you. Put a magnet to the tank ...if it sticks you got steel, if not it's aluminum or 300 series stainless steel which I'm almost sure it is not.
It's aluminum. The other tank is not far behind also. Just it's age proved it was on borrowed time these last several years. I'm sorry most responses are negative. A few of us are/were in the marine service companies. Done correctly to protect your investment and have any liability coverage; is to correctly replace the tanks. Good luck.
Simple. Don’t buy a boat with alum tank... my tanks will be 50 year old next year... fiberglass. But hey... it s cheaper to use alum tanks.
Exactly what im doing Capt . I am putting in 2 Mueller tanks and cutting out the damaged tank, this will only run me $1800.00, thanks for all the responses Captains.