I'm not sure if this belongs in General Discussion or Technical... as it isn't very general and it isn't very technical... I'm replacing all of the glass on my 70' motoryacht. Currently, it has double pane (insulated) tempered glass. I'm replacing with single pane laminate as I believe laminate glass is the better option. The existing glass is privacy glass. There is no film. Heat rejection is terrible, even with the "insulated glass". In direct sunlight with an outdoor temperature of only 85 degrees, the IR thermometer shows it can get close to 130 degrees! Out of 12 windows, 5 of them have the seals broken and are fogging. I think the idea of insulated glass on a boat is terrible. I know there are "low-e" options out there, but they all have a weird mirrored metalic finish. And I don't want to look like an Azimut hahaha! I'm leaning toward installing CLEAR laminate glass an having them tinted with heat rejecting low-e 3M film. Anybody with experience have any advice?
I had my flybridge windows tinted with the “heat rejecting” tint and after a couple of years it was cloudy and looked like you were looking through a salt encrusted window. I ended up pulling it off and it was a mess getting the glue off. But I can’t tell you what brand or who did it. But I was told it would lower the temp in the flybridge. I couldn’t tell the difference. It was done at a reputable yard in S FL but maybe the sub did a poor job with an inferior product.
We are having heat reflecting film installed now. They are installing Huper Optic Ceramic 70 which is USCG approved for pilothouses... it is clear with a slight blue tint. The temperature difference on surfaces inside where sunlight is shining through one with Huper film and one without is very noticeable...I like it...highly recommend this film...you can google Huper optic 70 vs 3m crystalline 70...there are some videos testing the two. Both are good...Huper is supposedly more durable than 3m and a better product for marine use. Our installer said skip the low E and use a quality heat rejection film.
Contact Lookout Boat Window at boatwindowframes at gmail dot com. They make all glass frames with the best of tinted laminated glass. Tell them I sent you. You will be impressed. I am a customer.
41.5 Thanks Ralph! I would, but my boat is frameless. Just the glass panes is required. The question is to have the glass made clear and add film or to get the glass made "dark grey".
I was thinking Broadus Rose could help you with these questions as he helped us. We went for tinted glass and are very happy. These kids can deliver just the glass (I think).. They also work with a glass mfg that delivers glass in any tint required.
I ve had regular film applied and when done right it is invisible, can’t tell the difference with tinted glass For a pilothouse where night time visibility is important, look into V-Cool. It is clear and does really cut heat down . I had it installed on the forward skylounge windows on the Lazzara 84 I run and it works. Been almost two years
We used a product called Residential Bronze on the tug pilothouse windows - It rejects 80% of available light. Have it on the Unimog windows too - although at night it can present another problem - was that a deer I just hit <g>.
+1 on V-Cool, very good product with very experienced applicators. They've been serving the yachting industry for a long time with great reviews and results.
My Princess has a gorgeous one piece extreme slant windshield. And an ample amount of glass in the saloon. The hot south Texas sun is as brutal as in Florida. "The boat was an oven." Step One Cover the windshield with Black PhiferTex Plus. Since I run from the fly bridge 95%, I rarely take the screen off. The polyurethane mesh fabric blocks most of the heat and light. Black is hotter than white, but is much easier to see thru, and has no cleaning issues. The Plus+ material is denser or the regular weave is more open. Your choice. If I ever need to run from the lower helm. its easy to remove the windshield screen. Step Two At my backwoods Texas dock, there are no "marine window tinters". Ordered on line from TintDepot, a 20" x 50' 18% ceramic xtream. It promises 62% solar rejection. And the cost as just $123. *Warning- Avoid metal films that will block your cell phone reception. Next, I bribed an auto tint installer to come to my dock. (Harder than you would think. As docks and boats are alien. ) He never stopped whining about the shapes and angles and corners. Results Great. I am ecstatically happy with the improvement. The saloon is 20 degrees cooler. I know to be careful with film. Cleaning, scratching, peeling, etc. The original saloon curtains are still helpful. Suggestion Just like in your car, factory tint is better than aftermarket films. Tints exist only due to the failure of adequate original glass coatings. Good luck.
We have the black mesh window covers, they lower the temp in the ph some but not nearly as much as the Huper film. Cannot leave them on when running at night and they are a pain to R&R for cleaning the glass. The heat rejection films are well worth installing if you have a temp problem in your boat.
Some helpful details on windshield screen transparency. For optimum transparency, choose standard Phifertex in black. Phifertex Standard has a weight of 7 oz and a 42% openness factor. The black is much hotter than white. The black is much easier to see through than the white. For privacy at the marina, choose Phifertex Plus. For maximum shading, choose Phifertex Plus. It is heavier at 11 oz and only a 7% openness factor. Post Script (PS) Low angle windshields will decrease the transparency even more. This is because you will be looking somewhat sideways thru the fabric. Phifertex is best known for roll down patio sun screens and outdoor seating. .
And your point is? Any mesh or cover makes it feel like a cave... they re fine when you re not on board but no replacement for film or tint
In addition to mesh window covers (not as effective as jayjay's) we have white vinyl canvas covers that block the visibility and reduce heat gain and uv's a lot but makes the PH like a cave. I'm on the boat almost daily and like the open view. Will only use the vinyl covers for additional protection when the boat will sit at the dock and not aboard for longer periods...boat faces due West.
The biggest issue with window tint is that some brands will change color, turn purple or green. Only get tue highest quality ceramic window tint, costs more but we'll worth it. Also make sure you have a lifetime warranty against pealing, fading, hazing and scratches. I used to install years ago, still do for my own use and only but the best. Good luck
Took a reading yesterday with a temp gun in the afternoon, bright sunlight at the windshield facing West. Window with no film 138.2 degrees, window with Huper c70 film 112.8. The surface is a tan vinyl covering on the flat surface around the helm. You could really feel the heat where no film is installed. The previous owner had replaced one of the two PH air handlers with a slightly larger unit and left the other in place disconnected. I was going to replace that unit but will wait and see if the summer temps are ok, may not need it now.