As I always said, you are never done with a boat and there is always something to fix!!! My dads 75 did the same thing , we West Epoxied the side and bulk head area, after fixing the rot. Never ran into that problem again.
Port elbow on. Fits nice EXCEPT to get the exhaust host to line up it had to be rotated until the water input is now right in front of the alternator drive pulley. Why oh why couldn't they have just put a straight nipple on it?
Mine were straight. Any chance it is for the other side ? Doesn't make sense that it would leave a low spot for water to collect.
The water will drain OK, it's the water inlet which is the problem. As this was supposed to be an exact equivalent to the old one I'm a little unhappy. Same J&T part number. Some 2 inch copper pipe and a couple silicone elbows will remedy it, just a pain. This picture shows the problem a little better. Yeah, I know, engine needs cleaned and painted and the nasty (I don't call it crappy anymore) wiring needs to come out.
What engines do you have? What I was referring to is how is the raw water going to drain out of the hose? Look at the elbow I posted here http://www.yachtforums.com/threads/post-42-hull-3-the-return.22974/page-8#post-242227 The raw water has a constant slope into the manifold, so no water will sit in the hose or fittings. It really looks like they welded the elbow on wrong.
71s rule! Actually I was talking about the wiring mostly. I went to the boat today and checked to see what would happen if I swapped sides. It would be more of a problem and I'd have to add a J turn to the water line and adding more restriction that I don't want and the plumping would still have a significant low spot. What I really should have done was check out the installation as soon as I received the elbows last fall. So yes, there will be water not draining from about 2 feet of 2 inch line. I have e mailed J&T about this, suggesting they spec this part with a straight connection, the customer can add a 90 if needed.
I have 6 71 naturals, so no turbo and a different cooling arrangement than you. I have a front mounted belt driven raw water pump (why they did that I'll never know) with heated raw water exiting the exchanger on the inboard side. It then converts to a 2 inch copper tube, runs back above the blower and turns outboard at the rear of the engine. With the original cast iron elbow that last run was a straight shot and everything drained.
This isn't going to cut it. Elbow is coming back off and sent to weld shop. J&T is back on my $&#@ list.
Take another look at my elbows. I really think they are an ideal configuration for the water inlet. http://www.yachtforums.com/threads/post-42-hull-3-the-return.22974/page-8#post-242227
She's not what I would call a wet boat. I used to skipper an Egg Harbor 46 that was worse. I don't know if the factory installed it or if it was an owner add on. She's a REAL early hull.
That's a nice set up, but I have no turbos. It's moot now, for $120 spent at the weld shop, the configuration will be the same as original.
Thanks for the comeback I was just curious so I have a 46 and a lot of times had spray comes up over the bow