Attaching 12v/0.6A to house bank 12v /435A?

I'm assuming that is 12 V Direct Current (battery operation) for the camera;

If your camera requires 12Vdc and may draw up to 0.6 Amps of current.
Your battery bank can provide 12Vdc and deliver a 435Amps of current flow to connected options.
No problem here, Your camera should work over 700 hours before the battery needs re-charging.

If your camera requires 12VAC, Don't tie it in. It may well fail the smoke test.


I like the idea of digging deeper into your 12Vdc/120Vac options.
Some refers do use a 12Vdc compressor and have a builtin Converter making 120Vac work.
Some refers do use a 120Vac compressor and have a builtin Inverter making 12Vdc work.
Double check the manuals & schematics or read some data right off of the compressor to help determine what voltage and style (AC vs DC) would most effetely run the equipment.


Big inverters are great but they do waste some power doing their thing (norm 80 - 90% efficient), Then if the fridge is converting it back to 12Vdc it's loosing some more power before the poor compressor gets a drop of power.
Removing it from the loop MAY be more efficient in the long run. How long (weeks, months, years) before any payback (your labor, materials) is realized is a guess.

Again, it's in the mfg's specs.
I would assume anything rated at 12Vdc has a tolerance to go 15Vdc with no problems.
Contact the mfg to cya.

If your trying to get away from inefficient equipment, why tie in a Dc to Dc converter?
Just the nature of another device uses wattage. The heat sink design is not there for good looks.

We have a number of DC powered cameras and other related gizmos powered by 120 wall adapter. I looked into getting rid of them but voltage variation are an issue. Gave up

Some wall adapters are mini transformers converting 120Vac to 12Vac.
Then some adapters are crude 120Vac to 12Vdc converters.

You just can not assume when you read on a gizmo "12v" that means 12Vdc or battery voltage.