I was curious about best methods to save strain on a deployed windlass. I was told, and it makes sense, that after anchoring, you should take the load off your windlass with a chain block or hook onto the chain a few feet down and lash to a cleat to relieve the load. On my windlass, I've been using the lock that swings into the teeth to prevent it slipping but maybe that's not the best idea. I'm sure those more experienced will have much better suggestions on best practices?
I've always been told not to use the windlass at all once anchored. I have a large cleat just aft of the windlass in line with my bow roller. Once the anchor and chain are on the bottom and I have enough rode out I pull some slack out of the chain locker and transfer the anchor line to the cleat and make it off. Then I back down to set the anchor. To retrieve I simply take the line off the cleat and it goes back on the windlass for hauling.
I think most windlasses are built to withstand th load placed on them in normal conditions. Personally if it s under 15 kts, I leave the chain as is on th windlass. Over that, mostly to reduce th noise of the chain on the roller, I use a bridle made of a chain hook attached to a couple of lines which I cleat on each side of the bow. The elasticity of th nylon lines also gives more shock absorption although 100' of chain lying on th bottom smooth things out quite a bit (catenary effect) A downside to using a bridle is that in a crowded anchorage it will take longer to get out of the way of the idiot dragging towards you Been doing that for ... 30 years... I have yet to get a windlass failure. Knock on wood.
Using the stopper is a good practice to take the strain off the windlass. As Pascal says, a bridle (we call is a snubber) with a chain hook will act as a extra shock absorber, which will also reduce the risk of jerking the anchor free as well. On my boat, we use the snubber and then put the chain on the stopper as insurance if the snubber breaks.
For smaller yachts, West Marine sells one with a hook and short piece of seemed like bungee cord wrapped in stitched tough canvas, that was maybe 4-5' with a loop.......I used that on a 55' Neptunus and worked well at taking any strain off the windlass and also shock......What I've found most of the time in moderate wind or current is if you put enough chain out, there really isn't much stress on the windlass because of the caternary effect of all the chain on the bottom. The one we used had a hook on the end, but I'd find a hook that fits perfectly onto a link of chain and just make up a short big loop on the other end to throw over a cleat. http://www.westmarine.com/buy/simply-brilliant--anchorsnubber--11097508
I fully accept Pascal's way with one exception, I always use this item you call Snubber. I use a Sea-Dog line chain gripper that proved itself in winds over 50 Kt. an additional advantage to using those items is reducing the angle between the ground and the chain which strengthen the anchor holding power
Yes, use a snubber line if strong winds are-a-coming. I leave the chain on the windlass in light conditions. On previous boat my 555 windlass was rated at 1100 lbs pulling power. (Hardly ever, never used that, especially since the motor was me.) I mounted a 13" cleat behind the windlass, free-wheeled the gypsy and let the chain ride over the gypsy to the cleat. One of my buds, who is much smarter than me, calculated the load on the gypsy in hurricane conditions with a 15 degree angle involving sines and cosines and concluded it was all doable. Hence I hardly used the snubber line as the weight of the chain would provide all the dampening needed. (33 foot sailboat, 55 lbs anchor, 5/16" high test chain, usually 7-1 scope. Even in 30-40 knot winds the chain was never taught and not shock-loading cleats or windlass) Using the above philosophy on leaving chain on windlass while anchored, make sure your equipment is oversized and the weather settled.