Why not just use the ZF filter??? It's $16,000 to rebuild one of those gears, start to finish. Just the oil pump alone in that gear is close to $4,000 installed. Is it really worth $40 s in savings, honestly???
When in doubt or protect your investment; Skippy J has a good point. For hits & giggles, Take note of what comes out of the ZF box. As I stated a few back, I opened my TD box and there was a Baldwin filter.
That's true, but put a filter that doesn't do it's job, or one that explodes or leaks and you will have a very overpriced rebuild at $16,000. I think I'd rather pay for the overpriced filter and have piece of mind. Look up Kafue's thread on his gear rebuild and look at how much hassle, money, time lost, and 2 rebuilds later, over having the wrong filter in his gear, which was installed by the rebuilder by accident........
True, but if a fram is as good as the automotive ones, you might as well have the wrong type of filter in there. The fram cases are very weak and crush easy, the bypass valve gets stuck on them, it is definately an economy filter I wouldn't want installed on anything of mine.
Will the transmissions heat up enough just idling at the dock or do I need to run boat before changing trans oil.
Skip I think you use a separate oil cooler for your clutch. If so, warming up the oil will take a long time (if ever) at the dock. However, The synthetic oil you have in there now will flow the same warm or cold. The important thought is to ensure any sediments is suspended in the oil and not on the case bottom. Running and clutching a few times dock side and drawing from the bottom, should work fine for you.
Okay heres the latest update. I bought the ZF filters and kept the Fram for backup. Replaced the Mobil 1 Delvac 5-40w in the transmission with Shell Rotella T1 40w. Decided to send oil samples in to Blackstone to see results from Mobil Delvac oil with approx 400 hrs. Both samples came back very similar with no issues. Oil viscosity was at 53%.
Skip Does you MAN displays show gear pressure or temp data? Interested to know if any conditions have changed with the new oil.
Old post but just read the thread and couldn't help but to comment. What color does unburnt fuel add to a diesel engine's lube oil? What color is a diesel engine's lube oil after running long enough to acquire a measurable percentage of fuel dilution? What color is diesel engine lube oil after running for 2 or 3 hours? What makes diesel engine lube oil that color? I am also curious how the viscosity dropped so much ... was a sample of the new, unused, oil submitted at the same time for comparison? VI shear? Wrong type oil?