I have been spending my time getting to know my "new" Post 43 and what a pleasure it is! I have come across many cool things and some quirky ones too. One such is the apparent difficulty accessing my port heat expansion tank. On either side the clearance between the expansion tanks and the floor boards is literally about one inch. There is of course a centerline access hatch that allows for quick access to the ER. Larger panels are located on both sides of the salon floor to gain full access to the engines. It appears that these larger panels need to be lifted to access the cap on the expansion tanks for my daily checks. The starboard side is no big deal, I can push up on the floor boards enough to gain enough access to remove the cap from the expansion tank. The port is a different story. Thus far it seems I have to move the sofa either out into the cockpit or over the the other side of the salon just to be able to access the expansion tank cap. Since checking the water in my expansion tanks is a must every time I run the boat (just as is checking all fluid levels) it seems that there must be an easier way to access them. What am I missing? What are you guys doing?
ber, 1st congrats on you new Post. the 43 is a great boat, I think you will be extremely pleased with your post. I have found my Post to be a much better boat than I expected it to be. I have to move my whole port sette to open the port wing hatch. Its a pain. Re the port heat exchanger, I have the same or very similar issue on the 46. without opening the ER "wing" hatches, I enter the ER from the center hatch, I am able to take the cap off the expansion tank and dip my finger in to check the level (COLD ENGINE ONLY!!!!!), fluid should be an inch or two from the top. I check the fluid level by feel. I can top it off from the er water hose or add some approved solution with a hose and funnel without opening the wing hatch. Don't try the "feel" method even with a warm engine. I hope this helps.
Yes it helps. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't crazy and missing some obvious solution. I am partial to my hands (and arms, face, etc), so yes cold motors only!
I have seem small access hatches cut in the wing hatch over the expansion tank, but I really don't think its worth the trouble.
If you put coolant expansion tanks on your heat exchangers, you won't have to remove the cap on the heat exchanger and check it. Also, some D.D.'s had clear sight glasses put into the heat exchanger so you don't have to remove the cap also.
Install PYHI deck plates directly over the expansion tank caps or add remote mounted coolant overflow recovery bottles.
I like the idea of deck plates. I have overflow recovery bottles already. I'm just never confident they reflect what is in the expansion tank (maybe I should trust that?) FWIW I have been referring to the large tank in the front of my DDs as expansion tanks. The heat exchanger proper is integral, but not the same thing. I say this because I want to make sure I have my terminology right Below is what I would call the heat exchanger
Well, according to the J&T site they call it a Heat Exchanger Tank which incorporates the water reservoir and element all in one. So I guess you would properly call the tank a "heat exchanger". On the Ford Lehmans the expansion tank and HE are two different parts altogether, hence my confusion....
I've found the expansion tanks work fine to tell the coolant level. As long as they are not blocked and show the level rising and falling during heating\cooling. I only remove the caps if I have the large hatch open. I would trust them to tell you the coolant level.
Install a Murphy Gauge on each engine. Easy to look at for coolant level and it has the added benefit of giving you an alarm when the coolant suddenly runs out. It will still sound a bell even if your coolant alarm sensor is dry. It must be installed at the correct level, typically on the engine room ceiling level with the top of the coolant in the tank. It can warn you of a cracked manifold and coolant loss before you blow an engine. I had a manifold fail, lost fluid and the regular temp sensor failed to warn me because it did not operate unless wet. Result was two cracked heads, massive sleeve damage and rebuild. Now I have peace of mind.
I will be on my boat tonight and will send a picture. I will check if I have the model number of the gauge.