Anchor Winch Purchase & Installation Advice

My first piece of advice would be to avoid any Anchorlift windlass product. See this thread: http://www.yachtforums.com/forums/technical-discussion/21887-anchorlift-windlass-problems.html

Lewmar makes good windlasses. Be sure to put the breaker in an accessable location. I've often had them pop just as the anchor broke lose. If you anchor in a muddy area I'd also suggest running a hose to the area. You also want a cleat nearby rather than leaving the strain on the windlass.

Hi,

NYCAP has a couple of good pointers there.

These guys also make pretty good gear.

Winch Accessories

I also agree that Lewmar makes good windlasses.

Lewmar is indeed a good choice, which model really depends on your pulpit and locker setup If you post a couple of pictures, I'm sure you ll get some detailed advice

Don't try to save a few bucks on th windlass by looking for a cheap brand, the windlass is only part of the overall project costs by the time your done with wiring, breaker, solenoid,and most importantly your time.

Which anchor to pick depends on the bottom conditions in your area that said, I find the Bruce / claw to be a good inexpensive all around anchor. Properly sized, no make that properly oversized, it has never let me down and i anchor out a lot.

Also while all chain may be heavy and an overkill on a boat that size, don't settle for th all too common 6 or 10' of chain. I consider 50' of chain to be the minimum

The critical part of a windlass install is having a deep enough locker and make sure the windlass isn't placed too forward where chain may pile up in the Vee of the hull and jam on the way in. This is all too common and a PIB

The Maxwell RC-8 I installed last spring is a GR-8 windless.

i find it helpful to look at other boats my size to see how things were done on them...i also walk around the marina.. there are alot of 3607s or even ones for sale and look at the pics... and if lucky owners near by that can answer questions.

Can't see much with the dinghy there... Try to place the windlass as far back as possible without interfering too much with walking around.

Generally the windlass will be mounted between the blue and black canvas and will feed directly through the deck underneath it (through the windlass). The cleat might be an issue.

We put a new windlass on our 36 carver last spring. The Lewmar pro fish was what I installed and am very happy with it mine is mounted on the hull directly behind the bow pulpit and the chain feeds into the anchor locker in the bow. Check out the Lewmar products you won't be sorry. When you install make sure to use good backing plates to give extra strength.

You can probably offsets it just a bit so the rode clears the cleat. Is that your only bow cleat or do you a cleats just behind?

The problem is the offset hawsepipe. If the anchor locker is also offset and not on centerline, I don't see how you can install a windlass on that boat. A pulley or block may work but add complications and friction. Where is the anchor locker hatch on the foredeck

Than swivel looks likes suncor. If so, remove it! Thy are prone to failure, I have lost a 110lbs Bruce in the mud of the Indian river because of such failure. I don't really see the need for a swivel but if you really want want, use a Kong instead.

Generally on the Lewmar's and others, the chain, rode drops down inside of the windlass/wildcat straight into the anchor locker, there is no hawse pipe for it.

Hi,

The Hawse Pipe runs from the deck to the outside, it is not part of the windlass.

The one that goes to the locker from deck is the Spurling Tube.

It is not a part of the windlass either.

If the chain will run it can be any shape or direction you want.

The style of windlass the OP is looking for, on a 36' boat many times is like this Lewmar, that does not use a hawse pipe, nor a spurling tube, it drops it down directly from the middle of the windlass into the anchor locker.

Vertical Windlasses products

http://www.lewmar.com/products.asp?id=8854&lid=27846