Does anyone know the proper cruising temp. for twin 180hp 3.7 mercruiser's. My port side runs about 165 at cruising speed of about 3200-3600 rpm's. the stb side runs 160 at the same rpm's. Thanks for any info. Billy
Hi, I got this somewhere else a while ago. It depends if its raw water cooled or fresh water cooled raw: 160/165.fresh: 170/180
still getting to warm? Ok I changed the thermostat and at idle or under 3000 rpm's the temp is fine. over 3000rpm the temp starts climbing, and when I slow back down the temp comes back down. I was told it is probally the impeller, can this be changed in the water? I have a FWC system. I am going to clean my heat exchanger next, just to see if it will help. Reason being Im in the marina and don't have a trailer to pull her when I want. If it were up to me she would already be out and the impeller would be brand new..Does anyone know a way to test to see if it is the impeller? If any of you guys have experience in this your advice is greatly appreciated. I have not let her over heat when I reach 190 on the temp gauge I let her cool off. Thanks Billy
It would be very helpful if you let us know what kind of engine this is and maybe what boat it is in. As far as changing impellers, close the through hull and change it. If you can change a thermostat you can replace an impeller. While you're at it, clean the strainer. If this is all a mystery, use Google to search for your engine/boat combination and raw water pump impeller replace.
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Sorry for the lack of info, she has outdrives. As far as motors they are twin 180hp mercruisers, 3.7 liter. and the make is 1987 27 ft Carver Santigo
Is she fresh or saltwater cooled? It sounds exactly like a bad impeller. They should really be changed out each year, 2 at most. Yes it can be changed in water. Open up the waterpump and you'll see it. Go to Google and you'll find complete explanation and I believe video of how to do it. Make sure you get all the fins and pieces thereof which have broken off. There are two other possibilities that I can think of, especially if she's been run into the sand. 1) The thermostat. I know you said you changed it, but I once ran into a boat that had a little sand come through and we ended up changing the thermostat 3 times. The other is the intakes on either side of the lower unit. Make sure they're clear.
Hi, Ed - The OP says his boat is FWC which I read as Fresh Water Cooled, how do you figure sand gets into the thermostat on a Fresh Water Cooled System?
You're going to have to haul the boat to change the impellor. You're going to have an impellor in the lower unit of the outdrive. Change both sides. You also may or may not have a raw water pump on the engine and that has an impellor that should be changed if so equipped. Some of the smaller mercruisers only rely on the outdrive water pump to push it through. If this does not solve the problem, then I would look at removing and cleaning your heat exchangers. How high does the temperature get up to over 3000 rpms? There could be other more serious issues causing the temperature to rise also such as blocked/bad exhaust manifold risers, improper ignition timing, or a blown head gasket, etc.......but I would start with the impellors if it's been more then 2 years or 200 hours. If you cannot physically see the amount of raw water flow out of the exhaust because it is routed out of the propellors underwater. The only way you may be able to see if it's waterflow is to put a gauge in the water line running from the outdrive to the engine, and measure how much water pressure each engine is making at cruise speed. If it has a raw water pump mounted on the engine, you can take the cover plate off and physically look at the impellor, but you might as well change the impellor if you take the cover plate off as they are relatively inexpensive. Less water flow would equal less pressure. You can also measure temperatures of the coolant before and after the heat exchanger, and the temperatures of the exhaust risers with an infrared temperature gun which would give you an idea. The water inlets on the lower unit of the outdrives could also be blocked with barnacles or other growth.
Hi, I think he answered that one already. Checking the Heat Exchangers is good advice as they may have just furred up while it was sitting for the winter. Not being familiar with this exact engine arrgt can anyone who is suggest if it is possible to remove the feed hose while the engine is idling and see how much water comes out? If there is a good flow and it increases as the revs are upped the impeller might be good after all. As it is a twin engine setup what are the chances of both impellers being duff at the same time?
Long day in the hot sun. I looked back specifically looking fo that and didn't find which is why I asked. Just looked back again and it stood out like a sore thumb. So he's heading for the outdrive and now has some education for his next boat.
We just got her a couple week ago and we had to come 130 miles or so down the river to our marina, The motor ran 160 to 165 all the way no problem. Then next time I had her out is when I noticed the temp rising, I have let it get to 190 degrees while on plane over 3000rpm to 3500 rpm to see if it would come back down. but always back down to 1500 to 2500 rpm and it will come back down to 160 to 165 degrees. Im pretty sure their is a waterpump on the front Ill check that impeller, Does it haft to be broken in peices to be faulty or can they look normal and be bad? I was just hoping not to have to pull her out before the fall. Thanks for all the help guy's
My experience of bad impellers on FWC engines is the other way. When you drive fast, the cooling is sufficient, but when you slow down the heated engine will heat up the heat exchanger where the raw water cooling will be too weak. Another experience is that the instruments are often showing wrong figures...
Good thinking I will check it out. Yep I need to hurry up and get a book on these motors lol.. cause once again Im going to have to do some tracking down to find out where the temp sensor plugs into the motor...