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Steel, wood or aluminum

Discussion in 'General Yachting Discussion' started by Mambo42, Dec 13, 2025.

  1. Mambo42

    Mambo42 New Member

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    Thanks for the explanation, this is the type of information that gives me insight of why I should not get into a wooden boat. It is not my idea of fun to spend a fortune each year on maintenance of the wood and I don't have the expertise to do it myself.
  2. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    The issue with metal boats in general is that poorly installed or maintained electrical systems are an enemy. It's not as much about "corrosion", although they will oxidize and blister. It's more critical about the creation of batteries in the water via stay currents, bad grounding, mixed metals. That's the case under the boat, in the water as well as inside the boat in the bilges and crevices. An aluminum boat likes aluminum parts. Beyond aluminum you use bronze or quality stainless for through hulls, seacocks, and essentially all fittings below the water line. I use Schedule 80 pvc above it...
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  3. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    What material is your current boat made of?
    Any issues with its build materials?
    Mixed metals? Metal fuel tanks? Wood window frames? Wood/balsa coring?
    Possible mini lessons may be examples of what to expect in larger projects.
  4. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    ...I should have also added, that quite often the metal boat's enemy is the marina or the boats adjacent as well. If you're concerned about maintenance, well, maybe owning isn't for you. But to own a metal boat requires a fastidious attention to maintenance. That doesn't mean it's expensive, but it is top-of-list.
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  5. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Yep, Brother rtrafford has a great point. I have witnessed many issues due to boats next door or near by. This may seem little until somebody else's stray currents have ate up your hull. You may never realize this till next survey.
    Oh, proper alloy/metal hull surveys usually cost much more.
  6. JWY

    JWY Senior Member

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    Let me come to steel's defense. Quality of build is significant. Yes, it requires more diligence. Checking your anodes, especially when in marinas, is important. Being aware of mixed metals is critical. Staying on top of corrosion is important. None of this is particularly time consuming nor expensive. Yes an audiogauge adds cost to a survey, but how often do you need one?

    However, a steel boat is better capable of withstanding damage from collisions, allisions, groundings, and fire. Hit bottom hard? You don't usually have to be hauled out to check for damage (that savings will pay for a lot of divers checking zincs.) Need a boatyard in a 3rd world country or remote cruising grounds? Commercial yards anywhere can deal with steel boats. Abrasion, dock rash, or scratched paint? Procrastinate until you find a cheap yard - no worry of water intrusion. Can't find that pesky deck leak? Or concerned with spider cracks?No problem with steel decks. Leaving the boat unattended? Not too worried about break-ins. Corrosion over months, if not years, doesn't usually lead to a major problem, as most quality steel boats have thicknesses that can suffer owner neglect. Gd forbid in case of a fire, steel can buy you time to fight it or to launch a life raft or grab a ditch bag.

    Now for my steel sales pitch: I used to give presentations at TrawlerFest comparing hull materials. At one point I sent a questionnaire to about 20 of my steel boat owners and in response to my question of what material would your next boat be? All but one said they would buy steel again. My steel long-range cruising clients are a bragging list: submarine captain, submarine engineer, VP of Boeing, Pres. of Siemans, VP Wackenhut (G4), NTSB investigator, Navy fleet commander, numerous Air Force and Navy pilots, Secret Service agent, commercial fishing captains, tug boat captains, many commercial pilots, etc. This is a pretty special group, all with safety as a priority.
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  7. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    When it comes to collisions (like a shipping container or a rock), thickness matters, and even the steel boat (as well as the FRP) can fail. Yes, if a collision is imminent, I'd prefer to be atop a steel hull rather than the alternatives, but that's also why we go overboard with life safety, epirus, ditch bags, sat phones, spots, and trip tracking monitors. Because **** happens out there to even the best build or best prepared.

    I chose mine because Burger advised that me that the owner, leery of aluminum for the first time, changed the spec of the build at the last minute, increasing plating from 7mm to 8mm. I then developed a plan in stages to re-plate and reinforce sections that over the decades had been exposed to abuse. You cannot own a boat without planned maintenance incorporated into the upkeep. Even modern FRP can be suspect as builders cut weight.

    If you're approaching a boat purchase keen on avoiding maintenance, maybe charter? Yeah, I removed my teak decks and rebuilt them with nida and FRP. I eliminated some teak trim. But boats need to be maintained, or you pay the price on resale or even face a complete inability to sell...
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  8. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    We know, Sister Judy deals with fine boats, fine people with very fine check-books.
    Also an outstanding author, broker and contributor.
    I hope I do not up-set her here;

    I am none of these but my 48 year old, 58 x 18 plastic boat, has been on a beach, tapped some rocks, has hit and been hit by big and lil stuff (good thing I haven't painted her yet) and has proved near bomb proof.
    Lots of cruising and was our home for many years.
    Not to bad for an old phart from the swamps on a red-neck budget.

    I may be wrong here but I feel the OP is not looking for one of those fine ships mentioned above.
    I hope not a 50 year old boat either.

    OTOH; If he can afford one of those fine ships, maintenance and maybe crew, then the material questions are moot.
    And he needs to call Judy.

    Find something you like that will work for you first, hull material may be further down your priority list.
    Your surveyors will be a large part of your purchase also. They will guide you further with the hull material and maintenance required.
    Surveyors will become great and long term friends, so hire from the better shops.
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2025 at 11:57 AM
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  9. JWY

    JWY Senior Member

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    Thanks, Capt. Ralph, no problem and your kind comments are much appreciated!

    I have sold approximately 200 fiberglass yachts (and maybe 60 metal yachts). I am not against fiberglass and I hope my post wasn't perceived as plastics bashing. I wanted to counter some of the negatives on steel and also point out some of the positives. Steel boats aren't for everyone, but I think there are a lot of boaters who might not appreciate some of the safety and convenience features that steel yachts offer.

    Calm seas here, pal :)
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  10. Mambo42

    Mambo42 New Member

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    I currently have a Defever 49, is GRP, only have a problem with the teak deck and some soft spots below. Boat is about to get hauled out, I will remove the teak deck, repair the soft spots and then I will put coosaboard as a new top layer. After that it will get painted with non slip paint.
    My fuel tanks have already been replaced 15 years ago, originally they were steel, now moulded plastic (or polyethylene) so they don't corrode anymore.
    Window framers have been changed as well and I have not see the core of the deck yet, but soon I will.
  11. Mambo42

    Mambo42 New Member

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    I am not worried about the outside of a steel hull, also not worried about the maintenance. What I am worried about is the inside of the hull, especially the places where I cannot get to, the ones hidden behind the lining of the cabins, the ER, the lazarette etc. The boat was built as a high quality boat, but that was 36 years ago.
    One item that I have to take into consideration is that the boat (the one I found) weighs 80 tons and there are not a lot of lifts in my part of the Med that can take it out.
  12. Mambo42

    Mambo42 New Member

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    I have a Defever 49, built 1979 and she is in very good condition. New engines, new wiring, new solar array, new large LiFePO4 battery bank, zero speed stabilizers, complete new navigation equipment etc etc.

    She is a perfect boat, gives us a lot of pleasure and we basically live on her year round, travelling through the eastern part of the Med (Italy, Croatia, Greece, Turkey).
    It is just that we need more space and we would like to have a bit more speed. The boats mentioned above would be a step back, would mean scaling down instead of scaling up.
  13. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    I used nidacore, had the sheets laminated both sides with a fiberglass skin. Bedded them down w 5200. Glass taped the joints. Glassed over the entirety to build up thickness. Fared and painted. Great outcome as it added strength, waterproofing, and R value. Holding up well after 6 years or so.
  14. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    That is going to be hard replacing a D-49. That is a nice boat.

    Re-read post #17 and why would you want guest on board?
    Guest mess up everything ☺☺

    We had four kats cruising with us at one time. Were currently anchored out with two.
    Our son has moved off and got married (I tried to warn him). His cabin is now the wife's pantry. That leaves the bow cabin for fishing & diving equipment.
    Yep, no room on a 58 x 18 for guest, just two kats.
    Life is good.
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2025 at 6:28 PM
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  15. Mambo42

    Mambo42 New Member

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    I know, we don't accept too many guests onboard, but also for the few that do visit we have to do this gymnastics around our bed. If they come at the end of the season it is not so problematic anymore, but at the beginning of the season we have rows of boxes stacked up around our bed as soon as a guest arrives. :(
    We know the amount of dogs will go down in the next couple of years, two are pretty old, they don't have eternal life, but for the next 5 to 10 year we will have one left. Don't want to say goodbye to them any time soon though.

    And of course we have our zero speed stabilization, that will be the hardest thing to give up...............or we will just install it again on the new boat.