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cautionary tale - broken davit cable

Discussion in 'Technical Discussion' started by incoming, Jun 28, 2025 at 9:21 AM.

  1. incoming

    incoming Active Member

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    Wanted to share a cautionary tale about a series of events that ultimately led to our davit cable failing while under load while lowering the dingy into the water. Thankfully, no one was hurt and the dinghy only fell about a foot. But very scary situation that could have been very damaging or even deadly in a different scenario.

    Background: the davit is a 600 lb rated UMT davit/bow crane with a dutton lainson winch. The winch is spooled with 25' of 3/16" stainless cable. The cable breaking strength is listed as 3700 lbs. I replaced the winch last season so the winch and cable were nearly brand new. The dinghy is a RIB weighing approximately 400 lbs with fuel and gear - also brand new, replacing my previous RIB that was about 50 lbs lighter.

    Part 1: We were anchored outside the reef off of Guana, and had run the dinghy in to have lunch at Nippers. When it was time to leave, I was diving on the anchor to make sure it wasn't caught on a rock and my wife and teenage daughters were raising up the dinghy to the bow, which they have done many times before. However, this time, my daughter did not fully pull out from the boom all of the wire connecting the remote to the winch. With the dinghy suspended over the water but not quite above deck level yet, she learned in a flash of sparks that the control wire got tangled up in the winch cable and spooled onto the drum. The wire insulation chafed off in several places and the energized conductors shorted to the winch cable. The short popped the breaker. With the storm bearing down, we managed to heave the dinghy on to the bow of the boat to take the load off the winch cable. It took us a while but we were able to get things untangled. I cut out the bad sections of the control cable and reconnected everything. The winch cable appeared undamaged from what i could see, other than what looked like superficial charring from the arc/shorting incident, but I didn't spool it all the way out (more on this later). With the davit working again, we were able to get the dinghy back on the chocks and get on our way just as the storm hit.

    lesson 1: always pull out all of the cable from the remote control when operating a davit. The guard on the front of the winch is insufficient to keep the electrical cable from getting pulled into the winch.

    lesson 2: if your winch is so equipped, make sure you know how to operate it manually and have the correct tools to do so. UMT failed to provide me the emergency manual crank handle when they supplied the replacement winch despite me asking for it and them promising it was included. Then they made several other promises to send it and never did. I eventually stopped following up - shame on them but shame on me too.

    Part 2: A few days later, once again my wife and girls were lowering the dinghy into the water, this time at the marina. When the dinghy was within about a foot of being all the way down, the cable snapped and the dinghy dropped into the water. One was operating the crane and the other two had taglines controlling the load. I'm still unsure what caused the cable to snap but my strong suspicion is that the control cable binding up in the winch cable on the drum deformed the winch cable and created a weak point. I don't know if the heat from the arcing could have also contributed. The failure in the cable occurred much closer to the drum than to the boat, so it failed in a place I had not fully inspected. The only other explanation (which is even scarier) is that the cable had a latent manufacturing defect and was far below its rated strength. Still, this was a very, very surprising turn of events given we were working with a load that was an order of magnitude less than the breaking strength of the cable. There were no dynamic loads - we were in a marina so the boat wasn't rocking and winds were not particularly strong. The dinghy was probably a bit on the heavy side due to water trapped in a compartment I was at the time unaware of (we'd drained the main bilge but there was a second chamber with a different plug). My guess is the load was still under 500 lbs though so I doubt this was a major factor.

    lesson 3: Never allow anyone under a suspended load. Everyone involved should be aware of the hazards and should understand there is always a chance of failure.

    lesson 4: Understand how to properly tend a tag line. Never allow the line to be wrapped around your hand, a finger, ankle, or any other part of your body. Be ready to release the line in an instant (for example, to keep from being yanked into the water by a falling load).

    lesson 5: When you have a failure of a safety critical system, fully inspect the entire system after repairs. In this case, i should have spooled all of the cable out and inspected it before lifting with it again.

    lesson 6: Don't let a large factor of safety make you overconfident. There are many ways your actual factor of safety can be reduced in a system under load. Always assume the system can fail.

    lesson 7: Water is heavy and sloshes around creating dynamic loads in addition to the added static load from the waters additional weight - make sure you get as much out as you can including from any secondary chambers or places where it can get trapped before lifting a dinghy.

    lesson 8: Fully inspect lifting gear regularly and replace any safety critical component with any sign of damage. Specifically, I will never again trust any steel cable that shows any sign of deformation whatsoever.

    After doing some research, I decided to replace the stainless cable with 3/16" dyneema. I think the benefits outweigh the downsides in this application, but YMMV. That's probably a different thread... IMG_3198.jpg IMG_3212.jpg IMG_3214.jpg
    chesapeake46 and leeky like this.
  2. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    Lesson 9: do not use welded rings to secure each cable to the davit hook. Use an oversized shackle. Years ago I had a 15’ dinghy drop two feet in the water when the weld on the ring failed.
    leeky likes this.
  3. Ken Bracewell

    Ken Bracewell Senior Member

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    If you've done the research, you probably also know that you'll likely need to change the pully to accommodate the dyneema.
  4. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Senior Member

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    Thanks for sharing your info and lessons learned so others can hopefully avoid similar challenges. Whereas nothing is foolproof, having had both the winch style and hydraulic style davits, I much prefer the hydraulic ram style. But your story makes me think I should devise a back-up method to load the dinghy if the davit fails. Having to tow it would likely be a PITA.
  5. incoming

    incoming Active Member

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    Is the concern the dynema will slip over the rim of the pulley and bind up?
  6. incoming

    incoming Active Member

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    I looked up what I could find in terms of pulley/sheave specs for dyneema and I’m well beyond the 8:1 D to d ratio recommended. The only other thing I see is on channel shape but the dyneema seems to fit in nicely without being squeezed so I think I’m ok but if there’s something else to look at let me know.
  7. Ken Bracewell

    Ken Bracewell Senior Member

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    Additionally, try to make sure your sheave is in very good condition, as the dyneema is significantly more susceptible to chafe.
  8. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    I remember a customer that was replacing his linear winch davit cable with a synthetic brand. He asked us to fit the new line and do the end splices.
    After reading about the splicing I advised the owner to ask a factory guy to do the splices.
    His reply: "That is what all the local shops were recommending".. Seems nobody wanted the Liability of those splices.
    Some kid came up from S FL, inserted some long splices and then sewed through the splice length several times (I know there is a term for this but can't think of it).

    Synthetics are slippery, even splicing to them selves.
    You can not knot or clamp them. Special swags I think are used on some.
    No sharp corners or edges.
    I know everybody raves about synthetic lines and rigging, I'm just not on that wagon and enjoy the principals of KISS methodology.

    IMO, go to a fine SS cable and keep an eye on it. Maybe install a winch spool cover to keep debris out and spring loaded to keep the cable on the spool properly.
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2025 at 11:56 AM
  9. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Was that SS or galvanized cable that failed?
  10. Ken Bracewell

    Ken Bracewell Senior Member

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    There is no voodoo to splicing Dyneema or Spectra, etc... I've had dozens of deckhands make very suitable splices for lifting and mooring. A YouTube search will show you pretty much everything you need to know. Any sailboat rigger can help you out too.
    d_meister likes this.
  11. motoryachtlover

    motoryachtlover Senior Member

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    I had a UMT Davit and experienced the control electrical cable getting caught in the winch mid lift. Not fun. But respliced the wires and got by. I MAY have the manual handle for my old UMT davit. I don’t know if it is the same as yours but if I have it you are welcome to it. I have a chain hoist (2000lb) in the boat for when the davit fails. It has saved my bacon a 3 times. I also carry a bridle and proper tow rig for emergency towing. I have had Dyneema fail once on my hydraulic ram style davit. It was due to another failure in the davit (can’t remember exactly what happened). Thankfully not under load.
  12. SplashFl

    SplashFl Senior Member

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    I seem to recall galvanized steel cable has much higher rating than stainless so always used galvanized for the 3 sea-wall mounted davits. Any time one developed any surface rust or signs of fraying it was replaced. None of them ever broke and the cables lasted many years.
  13. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Not sure about that, But not to argue, I'll agree.
    Galvanized may offer better working strength but IMO, not the flexibility of multi (multi) wind, fine wire SS.

    That spool looked like it could take a fine SS wire up to 1/4" and lift a tank.
    On The Other Hand (Da boss hates acronyms OTOH), 3/16" SS should meet his weight loads with plenty of reserves unless full of water.
  14. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    I'm confident that the working strength of stainless is higher than galvanized, subject to matching wire construction styles. That, plus the superior corrosion resistance means that the enhanced strength should last longer. When corrosion sets in, galvanized ill deteriorate pretty quickly...