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Onan runs but eventually trips fault breaker

Discussion in 'Generators' started by incoming, Aug 31, 2024.

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  1. incoming

    incoming Member

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2021
    Messages:
    137
    Location:
    Cocoa Beach, FL
    My MDKAL Onan/Kubota genset will run and produce good power for a while, but intermittently shuts off and trips the check engine fault breaker (not the genset fault - that's a different switch).

    When I reset the fault breaker, it starts and runs again.

    More details/troubleshooting steps:

    Last weekend I went fishing for ~6 hours. About 2 hours into the trip I noticed the genset had shut off. I went down in the engine room, didn't see anything obvious wrong, and started it back up. It ran the rest of the trip.

    When I got back to the dock, I checked the impeller which looked fine and the sea strainer filter basket which was also fine. I also just had a bottom cleaning so the intake should be clear on the bottom side.

    Yesterday, we ran 3 hours from Indian Harbour Beach to Stuart and the genset ran fine.

    This morning, we crossed to West End. The Genset cut out after about an hour. At the time, we were beating into tightly spaced 3'+ confused seas. I remember we were also in choppy seas bouncing around when it quit the time fishing.

    Once again, I reset the fault breaker and it started right back up. However, this time it only ran for about 20 minutes and died again.

    Recently, I had one of my engine exhaust elbows break and fill the engine room with soot. The engine room also got very hot - hot enough to melt the plastic wire chases that all of the wiring runs through but not hot enough to set off the fireboy.

    I changed out the main engine air filters, which were totally clogged with soot, but I didn't see an air filter on the genset to change. There's just a black plastic box the parts manual calls a "resonator." It doesn't appear there is any way to take it apart, and its unclear if there is a filter inside. It looks like some people have tried to take it apart and clean it and its just an empty box.

    Because this problem started the first trip after the exhaust problem I suspect they are related but its hard to say for sure. It seems like if one of the sensors wired to the fault breaker were bad, the genset wouldn't start at all. And the fact that its happened 3 times now rules out just having sucked up a plastic bag or sea grass or something temporarily clogging the intake

    Any suggestions for further troubleshooting?
  2. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 29, 2008
    Messages:
    8,532
    Location:
    Miami, FL
    Has to be one of the sensors. I always carry a full set of spares: oil and temp as well as water flow and exhaust temp if equipped like on Ohnos

    your decrease in run time would make me check the oil pressure switch first. I had one fail on my 18kw Norpro and after each restart run time would come down till it got to the point where it would not run more than a couple of minutes. At that point it was easy to bypass it to confirm the switch was the culprit
  3. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2004
    Messages:
    13,394
    Location:
    Satsuma, FL
    On this model, that push button breaker trips on many faults.
    If you remember, that breaker was also smashed when I was first on board but I still think is is working.

    I do agree with pascal; after ensuring water is flowing reliably, that oil pressure sender is the first suspect.

    On our Isuzu powered gen-set, it would keep shutting down for no reason (since new). Always figures an air bubble in the fuel supply.
    Years later, the oil pressure switch finally went solid false fault.
    Disconnected till we got back home and replaced.
    Never had a hick up since.
    Similar stories on other gen-sets and Hobbs switches sounding false alarms on main engines.

    I think you can disconnect that oil sender wire and trouble shoot from there.
    Just make sure you good on fresh oil.

    You have the same Kobota engine as our small gen-set. Everything around it will roll over but the block (& oil pump) is solid.

    Yep, no air filter on yours, just a poor air silencer.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 31, 2024
  4. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    Location:
    Fort Lauderdale
    How long has it been since the heat exchanger on the generator has been removed and cleaned?
  5. incoming

    incoming Member

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Cocoa Beach, FL
    Copy all re: sensors and thanks for the diagram Capt Ralph. Also good question from Capt J on the heat exchanger. I've had the boat for a little less than a year and haven't serviced the heat exchanger while I've had it. So I should probably pull it off and service it regardless. Anyone know what engine temp would trip the breaker? Next time it shuts off, I can shoot the block at the sensor with a temp gun and make sure its not getting too spicy down there. I'm leaning against that though because the first time it started right back up and ran for 3+ more hours.

    Interesting that these sensors can fail gradually I wouldn't have expected that.

    Appreciate the tips this should give me enough troubleshooting steps to isolate the problem, and also gives my confidence I'm fine to run it while I'm trying to figure it out.
  6. incoming

    incoming Member

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Cocoa Beach, FL
    Ran it this morning for about 90 minutes under load. Couldn't get a temp reading at the engine temp sensor location but here are a few temps (all degrees F):

    Oil Pan: 185
    Exhaust elbow, hose, muffler: 100-105
    Heat Exchanger: 145

    All of these seem to be reasonable
  7. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    IMO, numbers are great.
    Didn't you remove the end cap off of the heat exchanger looking for old impeller and zinc debris a while back?
  8. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    Location:
    Miami, FL
    The readings don’t mean much. You have to get a reading at the hottest pint in the cooling system which will be at the temp sender, at the thermostat or at the heat exchanger, where coolant comes in.

    A reading on the block isn’t going to mean much either.

    I wouldn’t touch the heat exchanger until you eliminated any sensor issues or unless you notice your raw water flow out the exhaust is weak and/or you get some steam out the exhaust.

    same goes for the impeller. Eliminate the sensors first

    It will vary by generator but the switches will only shut down over 200, possibly 210 degrees. What do the gauge show? Under load

    PS. The manual for the Cummins 4BT powered Ohnos 47 on the boat I run shows the temp switches will shut them down at 220F.
    incoming likes this.
  9. incoming

    incoming Member

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2021
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    137
    Location:
    Cocoa Beach, FL
    Yes when I changed the zinc it broke off in the heat exchanger and I had to remove the end cap to get it out. I don't remember it looking particularly bad at the time. That was about 6 months ago