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Burger 80 - Work in Progress

Discussion in 'General Yachting Discussion' started by PPD, Aug 24, 2023.

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  1. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    If you have a house battery bank made of four 8 volt batteries you could tap into three of them to feed the new 24 v panel. It s not ideal for the batteries long term but it will work for a few months.

    or just setup a new 24v bank and when the conversion is done, remove the old 32v bank. on a boat that size should have space to add a bank

    where is the current panel located? If in the engine room, you may want consider relocation the one in the pilot house or salon where it’s accessible and visible, especially the meters. I really like being able to see the digital meters from my couch :). The old panel was in the ER and it was a pita
  2. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    So, again I'll try to be clear...the engines and alternators should be linked to dedicated batteries directly through disconnect switches and not directly interact with the panel.

    Your panel has a separate feed to house batteries, and it should have an incoming primary breaker, either in line or on the panel. You will want to have a set of batteries for your house systems, and a set of starting batteries for each engine.

    If you want to dress your starter and alternators later, you can power these Detroits with 3 x 12v batteries in series to make 36 volts. This will work for the Detroits as a temporary solution to be able to avoid investing in the big 8 volt batteries. The house batteries are feeding your DC breaker set. It's possible that the two halves of that DC set can be separated in the backbone of the panel as to be able to feed them with separate voltages. In a sense the port half could be fed with 24 and the starboard half fed with the 32 v to allow you to transition you batteries and systems.

    I don't do that. I purchased some simple small breaker panels like Blue Seas, and I located them in a safe place nearby the panel. I set them up as temp 24v panels off my new 24v batteries, and then merged them into the main panel when the time was right...when there were enough circuits to abandon the 32v altogether.

    I never used 32v. I used 36v and 24v. In the end I simply removed a battery from the 36v bank to make it a 24v bank, and I used the spare battery to bolster my thruster bank by connecting 4 batteries into a parallel 24v setup for more push. Yeah, in the end I would have gone hydraulic on the bow as a component of my Naiad overhaul. One day I might choose to shift my bow thruster to the stern and replace the bow system with that hydraulic unit. But not soon...I'm good.
  3. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    Agreed, all of this. I replaced my overall panel, and I left it in the ER as the wire lengths were proper, and I have my Atlas system in there...so I really kind of need to go there to transfer power or swap gennies or whatever...I installed a camera onto my panel so that I can see the systems clearly from either helm or remotely through Gost as well. That lets me see them from my couch, or even from a plane...

    Main thing to keep in mind is that the Detroits are pleased with 36v, so that transition can happen in time if needed. Migrate from the 32v. That will allow you access to more options for more devices running in the 12 and 24v families.
  4. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    The starters will crank well but the 32v alternators will not fully charge a 36v bank. Not a big deal if you have a 36v charger on board.
  5. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    Correct. But during the interim I installed a couple of 12v 3 bank chargers for each 36v, and I used those at the dock. I ran like that for perhaps 3 years before finally getting around to the exchange...then I asked myself why I hadn't done it sooner, as it was really simple and painless. Now with the two new Northern Lights aboard, we created quite a bit of space outboard of the mains and beneath the new gennies...everything is neat and tidy now. Glad to have those old Westerbekes out. I'm all set to get back to the Exumas, maybe even further south this year.
  6. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    Indeed a three bank 12v charger will do


    I have a 12v 4 bank charger on my little sailboat to charge the 48v propulsion bank.
  7. PPD

    PPD Member

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    Thanks for the detailed info rtrafford and Pascall. It always takes my brain a bit to shift into the electrical mindset. I'm very visual so I need to draw out schematics and I usually need to do this standing in front of the panels/etc, and identify locations for things, which isn't feasible when the boat is 1200 miles away. I think what I will do is replace the 8volt port bank, which is no good, and get the boat up north. Then I can bring the starters to the auto/electric shop I've used before, do the alternators, add in the 24v bank and start phasing out the 32v as we refit an area.

    My plan has been to wire each new area with 12v LEDs and power as we go, and now I have a good plan of how to do it with splitting up the panel into a 32v side and the 12/24v.

    It's driving me nuts not having it nearby to work on these things, but it's been a 3 year search for the right boat, another couple months before it's in my backyard won't kill me.
  8. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    Just be patient with the project, and do it right. You won't regret if you do...

    Keep in mind, the 32 volts replaced with 36 volts for the engines allows you to have the voltage you need now as well as to later remove a battery and create an extra set when you reduce the banks to 24 volts. No wasted batteries, and you simply need 31 series batteries to handle the task. I used 12 volt 31M Odyssey batteries, and I'm getting about 7 to 8 years out of them. In total there are 14 aboard serving 12v nav, 24v house, 24v thruster, gennies, and mains. All interchangeable, easily. Keep it simple...and sealed....and no lithium.
  9. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    why 12v LEDs? Plenty of 24v available. Having everything 24v is much better than have 12/24v thru out the boat.

    yes there are things that are still hard to find in 24v like VHFs for whatever reason but pretty much everything can be found in 24v nowadays
    rtrafford likes this.
  10. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    Yes, the need for "some" 12v electronics led me to simply establishing a dedicated 12v systems for electronics only, and I run everything off that panel fed by two 12's in parallel.

    12v LED lighting typically dims better than 24v systems, and it provides a much better selection of lighting options including the temperature of the light as well as the wattage. I run my lighting off 24v, but I step each circuit down with a small transformer at each panel.
  11. TGUN

    TGUN Member

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    I almost bought this boat a couple of years ago. The non turbo'ed 12/71's are great and long running. The Interior was interesting . Im sure you will change that. I ended up passing on it but only because I found another one I liked better. Love the Old Burgers. Nothing like them.
  12. David Helsom

    David Helsom Member

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    I don’t want to hijack the thread, but it is pertinent to the discussion on the voltage and electronics. My Hatteras is all 24V. All of the electronics at both helms are obviously 12V. Right now on my 24V breaker panel I have one breaker that powers the Newmar converter which in turn turns on and powers all of my navigation and communication equipment. That seemed to be a giant achilles’ heel so I purchased a second converter and have it sitting as a spare in the event the current in the converter goes down. All of the Garmin, Fusion and Icom equipment is 12V only. Is there a better way to do this?
  13. SplashFl

    SplashFl Active Member

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    Mine set up the same with one under the bridge console and another in the ER but not yet explored what the one in ER powers. One boat I didn't purchase when shopping had a 12 v. battery under the console. With 2 sets of 12 v. batteries providing the 24 volt panels, why can't one of the 12 v. batteries feed a small panel for electronics to eliminate the electronics converter ?
  14. PPD

    PPD Member

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    We looked at a bunch of burgers, browards and Hatts over the past 3 years and nothing felt right until I got on this one. It has the walk around side decks, cockpit, big flybridge/boat deck, and the 12/71 naturals added a huge selling point for me.

    when I flew down for my first look at it, my initial impression was, wow - interior refit a must. Then the owner cold started the mains and gennies and ran the boat out for me and mechanically she was sound. On all the other boats we checked out, only one other met that standard.

    yes she’s dated, yes she needs a refit, but interior finishes are easy compared to repower, etc.

    We originally wanted to stay under 70’, but it felt right and we can manage to get around easy with the side decks and cockpit.
  15. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    While it’s not ideal for battery health to tap into a bank, with electronics not using a lot of power, it s something I d consider to eliminate the converter.

    my 53 has 24v house but 12V engines so for the very few 12v loads (2 VHFs, a sounder, and a FB stereo), I used the stbd engine battery. Most gens are 12v too so using the gen battery is an option as well
  16. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    Yes, you can choose to tap 12v off the house setup, but the sensitivity of the electronics to electrical noise and voltage drops drove me to setting up a parallel set of 12 volt batteries isolated to the nav alone. That being said, a step down transformer is going to live longer, typically, than a boost transformer. So if you have the backup in hand, maybe just stay the course?
  17. captbh

    captbh New Member

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    My Burger records show that she is hull #319C originally built as Antilles. Does that sound right?
  18. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    need the USCG number for me to check, but I don’t see Antilles in or around 73. Tae Foy? Her lines are right to have been 72’ at birth.
  19. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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  20. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    I actually have a very lengthy historical database of all of their boats. It’s not quite complete or perfect, but extensive.