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AC questions

Discussion in 'HVAC' started by RossC, Aug 14, 2023.

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  1. RossC

    RossC Member

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    A few questions.

    1) Can a 2007 vintage cruiseair be topped off using an auto parts stores Freon can or does it take an AC tech?

    2) We have 3 AC’s. Master stateroom, salon and fly bridge. The master and bridge work pretty good. South FL has been over 100f heat index ant the master stays at 70f without breaking a sweat. Salon does fine after sunset or when cloudy, but when the sun is out, it can’t keep up and the salon slowly creeps up to around 80f by mid day. When the sun starts to set, temp starts coming down and by 6PM we are back down to 70f. Is this the nature of the beast?

    3) Will probably change out all 3 units starting with the salon. Are the newer units more energy efficient? Dometic seems to be the go to in the US. Any other recommendations?

    Thanks
  2. RossC

    RossC Member

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    Also planning on descaling (barnacle buster) after we get the boat back to MD.
  3. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Senior Member

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    I’m not directly answering your questions but on my boat on hot days (not hot by FL standards mind you) I put a small fan in the door of my master strm blowing down the passageway and up the stairs to the salon. My staterooms gets much cooler than the salon and moving that air up and around seems to really help. Especially since the cold air is going to naturally settle downstairs and heat will rise anyway.
  4. boatpoor

    boatpoor Active Member

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    The freon type should be on the nomenclature plate on the units, but you probably won't get it at an auto parts store. You'll need a set of gauges to add freon.
  5. RossC

    RossC Member

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    So the lackluster performance at the hottest part of an FL day is probably normal. On the boat right now and it’s still hot out but no sun and the salon is 70f with the unit cycling. I also took down the mesh windshield cover/shade and put up the sunbrella cover. That seemed to help.


    So probably something am AC guy needs to do. 17 years old, probably 134A. Dometic should sell top off cans like they do for cars.
  6. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    It’s not just the outside temp but the water temp as well. If you re on a canal or closed basin chances are the water is hotter than it would be in a larger body of water.

    we re having a big issue in sofl with small
    Mussel shells growing in the hoses. This summer has been a real struggle. They restrict the water flow causing the units to run hot and in some cases tripping on high pressure. Descaling helps.

    if your units are cooling why would you want to add “Freon” ? If the pressure isn’t right, they will trip

    and if they are working, why do you want to replace them? Assuming you have self contained and not remote condensers, a 16k BTU will about $3k. Oh and yes the older units were better built than the new ones…

    as to brands, I consider Dometic to be the evil empire of the boating world. They ve gobbled up dozens of food brands and either merged them or eliminated them altogether. All their units whether self contained, splits or chillers use expensive proprietary electronics control boards.

    5 years ago I installed a chiller system on my personal boat to replace the old remote condensers aka splits. I picked Flagship Marine in Stuart fl. All MADE IN AMERICA, which designed and built. No fancy electronic, they use off the shelf parts and thermostats. They also make self contained and splits.

    in fact I have already replaced 6 failing Dometic Cruisair air handlers on the 110 I run with flagship air handlers. In all fairness they were 2005 vintage so I can’t complain. I just prefer the simplicity of the flagship and their solos construction

    but again, no need to replace yours if they work.
  7. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    You probably have the original R-22 Cruisair units.
    Dumetic bought that and other fine companies up. When you can't compete, buy up your competition.
    R-22 this not sold over the counter. Expensive as heck for licensed service techs.
    Nobody is selling or manufacturing any R-22 equipment any more.
    R-410 is current, pending some new refrigerant coming. If it works, count on the EPA to stop it.

    I was just talking with Steve at Flagship today. Great guy.
    Great stuff, o k prices, not wanting to sell split units unless he has to.
    Today,, 4 weeks to build and deliver anything.
    He has a self contained, cost reduced brand, for emergencies, that can ship now.

    Hot canal water will keep your systems from cooling well.
    Restricted strainers also.
    I wish you had your AC checked before you started leaving,,, in two days??
    Ed Galazka likes this.
  8. SplashFl

    SplashFl Active Member

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    Like Capt. Ralph wrote; you probably have R-22 units but that gas is many years out of production and even if you found an AC guy with some you best be sitting when you hear the cost of it. That said; before adding any you need to put pressure gauges on to see if it's even low. My 3 units, including blowers were replaced last year and I found the new blowers from Dometic do a much better job and even on the hottest S. Florida days the boat stays nice and cool. On my previous smaller spt. fish with only 2 units I had the forward salon windshield glassed and that made a huge difference.
  9. RossC

    RossC Member

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    All things considered, they seem to be working fine. Surveyor noted a little corrosion on the units, but that they were working fine. Appears to be flowing well out the discharge. If they are R-22, probably looking at replacing rather than repairing if there is a problem.

    What’s the best way to descale the AC. Videos show disconnecting the lines at each AC and circulating descaler through each unit separately for a few hours, but that doesn’t clean out the hoses to and from the units.

    I see that environmental marine sells Bright Bay. Is this as good as barnacle buster?
  10. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    My saloon 24Kbtu dies last Wednesday night.
    2006 model. Was going to shop for a new Bristol compressor, looked at the fan and decided against fixing it.
    I keep forgetting fans take a lot of abuse in salt air.
    Tray was toast also.
  11. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    If your flowing water, no high pressure errors or rapid compressor cycling, don't open pandoras box rite before you start your run home.
  12. RossC

    RossC Member

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    Not going to touch it until I get home. Just wondering the best way to go about descaling. Might even wait till winter haul out in November.
  13. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    November and out of the water is good.
    You may end up replacing hoses, reworking the strainer, cleaning up the sea-cock.
    I've even found restrictions at the discharge skin fitting.

    Oh, that reminds me, does this boat have a common drain manifold? Or each AC has its own piddle stream over the side.

    I got things to tell you about on those common manifolds.
  14. RossC

    RossC Member

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    The salon and master are on separate discharges. Not sure about the bridge. Bridge may have been an aftermarket install and combined with one of the other 2. Have to run the Genset to run all 3 AC’s at the same time because of a dock power limitation. Manual does not call out a separate through hull discharge for the bridge AC.
  15. ranger58sb

    ranger58sb Senior member

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    @RossC

    Nature of the beast, yep.

    You've seen external covers -- mesh, Sunbrella, Stamoid, etc. -- can help. Another you might consider in the longer term is interior window tinting, with a product designed for IR/UV filtering. (FWIW, we used 3M Prestige 50 on the front windshield and it makes a good difference. We used Prestige 60 on the rear slider, don't get as much sun there anyway so can't tell degree of difference. Neither obscures our vision outward, and neither is "privacy" tinting. We're now thinking of adding the same tint to some of the side windows.)

    Flushing your system with dockwater can sometimes help. Water pressure will force water straight through and overboard... although I think the outcome isn't too much different than running the system on raw water with your existing pump. Still, it's clean water...

    Flushing the raw water circulation system with either Barnacle Buster or Rydlyme can work. Both products recommend constant recirculation for best results, but... that's not so easy to do with the boat in the water. Still, I've used the "fill, wait, add more, repeat..." approach with Barnacle Buster and it works reasonably well. A small transfer pump will push solution right through your onboard pump, so it's not too difficult to add a gallon, wait, add another gallon, wait, etc. (Even better in our case would be a valve'd manifold so we could better control flow especially through our "farthest" (bow stateroom) unit... and the valves are on my To Do list.)

    We've replaced a couple Marine Airrrrr Vector Compact units and one Cruisair Stowaway unit (so far) with Dometic units that are now called DTGs (descendant from the Marine Airrrr Vector Turbo) and they've been a great improvement. Better air flow, better (composite) drain pan, better cooling overall and worked with our pre-existing control panels (Passport II on the previous boat, SMXir on this one) although maybe we had to order the right unit to get that compatibility. (Can't remember.) Best to order at a time when you can get "boat show pricing" discounts.

    The CTM units, same footprint, are said to be ditto all that... including working with existing control panels, and so far estimates tend to be slightly less expensive than the Dometic units. I've read their delivery packaging is sometimes challenged, but also that if the units survive transport everything else is good. As our remaining 16/12K units age out, I'm considering trying CTM...

    The original bridge unit on this current boat was delivered as a Cruisair 24K BTU model, don't know product number. We replaced it with a more current Dometic DCU 27-2361-410A unit... which was about an arm and a leg $$$ even with 20% discount... but seems to work OK. Not easy to cool the greenhouse; works better when we close the hatch to the bridge (which you might not have?).

    -Chris
  16. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    Barnacle buster works pretty well and it a not as corrosive and nasty as muriatic acid. Not familiar with Bright Bay.

    the easiest way to do it is to get a bucket, a small bilge pump and the right size hose or fittings. Ideally you want to descale the hoses as well between the strainer and the units. Problem with self contained is that they are scattered all over the boat making it difficult to catch the outflow back into the bucket. If that’s not possible then you need to descale one by one

    as a pump, I like the 120v rule 1800 as you can plug it anywhere and don’t have to worry about finding 12 volts. I always have one handy on board as a back up or for whatever emergency may arise.

    back flushing with pressure water helps as well especially for the **** mussels I mentioned in my first reply. When they get dislodged they usually pile up at the coil inlet or in manifolds. In fact it’s been so bad this summer that I have rigged both my own boat and the 110 with valves and tees so I can just flip valves and back flush one chiller at a time when needed. Sometimes I get as much as 1/2 cup of shells out. No hoses to pull off fittings or anything.

    air con techs charge around $200 per unit for descale… it adds up.
  17. StillLearning

    StillLearning Member

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    We upgraded our window tinting on the salon level 3-4 years ago. Has made a significant difference for us.
  18. ranger58sb

    ranger58sb Senior member

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    Forgot to include:

    If you have Groco strainers, Trac (the Barnacle Buster people) offers a lid replacement that takes a garden hose attachment.

    Or you can insert a Groco SSC with flush adapter somewhere in your system, either before or after the strainer.

    -Chris
  19. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Just finished up talking with Mermaid. They make a nice self contained unit up to 24Kbtu also.
    Will sell with the U board a lil cheaper than the other shops.
    Delivery time a lil quicker also.
    https://fmmsusa.com/marine-division/
    Nobody has ready to ship units now.
  20. RossC

    RossC Member

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    All 3 AC’s have separate discharge. I figure I can get a long hose that fits snugly into the through hull, route that hose to the stern where the AC pump is, disconnect hose from manifold and create a closed loop flushing everything.

    A more pressing issue is the vacuflush. The master VG crapped out this morning (locked up motor) and guest VG is not making vacuum. Environmental Marine reall did me a solid by 1) having the MasterFlush toilets in stock and 2) finding a tech to do the install. So tomorrow I will be rid of this vacuflush junk. It wouldn’t be so bad if they were in a location where they could be serviced, but they are buried behind the exhaust. The plan was always to upgrade to macerating toilets, just doing it sooner than expected.

    Survey also noted a low water flow alarm at low RPM on stbd engine. Surveyor thought is was a sensor, but this morning I noticed that more water was flowing from the port exhaust than stbd. I called SunPower Diesel and they were 2 weeks out so I went over to get impellers and do it myself. I was chatting with service and they agreed to fit me in tomorrow or Thursday. They will change the stbd impeller and check the flow sensor. Strange part is that temps were 172 and 173 at WOT which would tend to eliminate a flow restriction….but I’m seeing less water on the stbd than port at idle.

    Hoping to be heading north by Friday.