AC questions

The freon type should be on the nomenclature plate on the units, but you probably won't get it at an auto parts store. You'll need a set of gauges to add freon.

It’s not just the outside temp but the water temp as well. If you re on a canal or closed basin chances are the water is hotter than it would be in a larger body of water.

we re having a big issue in sofl with small
Mussel shells growing in the hoses. This summer has been a real struggle. They restrict the water flow causing the units to run hot and in some cases tripping on high pressure. Descaling helps.

if your units are cooling why would you want to add “Freon” ? If the pressure isn’t right, they will trip

and if they are working, why do you want to replace them? Assuming you have self contained and not remote condensers, a 16k BTU will about $3k. Oh and yes the older units were better built than the new ones…

as to brands, I consider Dometic to be the evil empire of the boating world. They ve gobbled up dozens of food brands and either merged them or eliminated them altogether. All their units whether self contained, splits or chillers use expensive proprietary electronics control boards.

5 years ago I installed a chiller system on my personal boat to replace the old remote condensers aka splits. I picked Flagship Marine in Stuart fl. All MADE IN AMERICA, which designed and built. No fancy electronic, they use off the shelf parts and thermostats. They also make self contained and splits.

in fact I have already replaced 6 failing Dometic Cruisair air handlers on the 110 I run with flagship air handlers. In all fairness they were 2005 vintage so I can’t complain. I just prefer the simplicity of the flagship and their solos construction

but again, no need to replace yours if they work.

You probably have the original R-22 Cruisair units.
Dumetic bought that and other fine companies up. When you can't compete, buy up your competition.
R-22 this not sold over the counter. Expensive as heck for licensed service techs.
Nobody is selling or manufacturing any R-22 equipment any more.
R-410 is current, pending some new refrigerant coming. If it works, count on the EPA to stop it.

I was just talking with Steve at Flagship today. Great guy.
Great stuff, o k prices, not wanting to sell split units unless he has to.
Today,, 4 weeks to build and deliver anything.
He has a self contained, cost reduced brand, for emergencies, that can ship now.

Hot canal water will keep your systems from cooling well.
Restricted strainers also.
I wish you had your AC checked before you started leaving,,, in two days??

My saloon 24Kbtu dies last Wednesday night.
2006 model. Was going to shop for a new Bristol compressor, looked at the fan and decided against fixing it.
I keep forgetting fans take a lot of abuse in salt air.
Tray was toast also.

If your flowing water, no high pressure errors or rapid compressor cycling, don't open pandoras box rite before you start your run home.

November and out of the water is good.
You may end up replacing hoses, reworking the strainer, cleaning up the sea-cock.
I've even found restrictions at the discharge skin fitting.

Oh, that reminds me, does this boat have a common drain manifold? Or each AC has its own piddle stream over the side.

I got things to tell you about on those common manifolds.

Barnacle buster works pretty well and it a not as corrosive and nasty as muriatic acid. Not familiar with Bright Bay.

the easiest way to do it is to get a bucket, a small bilge pump and the right size hose or fittings. Ideally you want to descale the hoses as well between the strainer and the units. Problem with self contained is that they are scattered all over the boat making it difficult to catch the outflow back into the bucket. If that’s not possible then you need to descale one by one

as a pump, I like the 120v rule 1800 as you can plug it anywhere and don’t have to worry about finding 12 volts. I always have one handy on board as a back up or for whatever emergency may arise.

back flushing with pressure water helps as well especially for the **** mussels I mentioned in my first reply. When they get dislodged they usually pile up at the coil inlet or in manifolds. In fact it’s been so bad this summer that I have rigged both my own boat and the 110 with valves and tees so I can just flip valves and back flush one chiller at a time when needed. Sometimes I get as much as 1/2 cup of shells out. No hoses to pull off fittings or anything.

air con techs charge around $200 per unit for descale… it adds up.

Just finished up talking with Mermaid. They make a nice self contained unit up to 24Kbtu also.
Will sell with the U board a lil cheaper than the other shops.
Delivery time a lil quicker also.
https://fmmsusa.com/marine-division/
Nobody has ready to ship units now.