M T f U! I'll do it myself.

Well watching somebody else work, is hard work..
It does take energy passing tools and hopefully cocktails.

Hurry up and learn things, I wanna change injector heights om my 12s.
Need a strong arm on da crank shaft ratchet.
We can pass each other refreshments while working.
Da brain needs lubricants also.

I just had a new MTU starter fail after just a year … yep. Made in china. Glad we kept the old one which was still working but couldn’t get parts to get it rebuilt. The new ones are half the weight. Says it all

A lot of cranking and whining, yea, yea, yea.

Ya think that missing brush screw on the pic bottom means anything?
Where the other screw IS, the plate has been hot a few times.
I've seen lots worse still cranking it out.

Sometimes, ya really need to pat our ole starters for what it does, where it does it, the environment it does it in and how long it's been doing it.
And not been touched, cleaned, oiled or even thought about in years.
Amazing..

Just pulled both of my partners Leece Neville direct drive alternators.
Fried bits and pieces were falling out of them.

I am supposed to provide rebuildable cores. Looking forward to this adventure...

Not sure about brothers, I know these guys are not singing anymore.

Now your tech will measure the bore and order the rite class size liner.
Getting the new liner to fit the case is very important. Expansion, heat transfer and long life depends on this fit.

Your to fast, new liners in hand?

So, as long as your full of surprises, The cam shaft lobes and height been measured yet?

The top crank bearing caps are usually still tight.
I can imagine your looking at the top cap and wondering WTF?
They don't get any wear.
Roll one out, roll one in.... repeat..
Your kid using Plasti-Gauge to check clearance?

In the days of LBCs, It was rare to replace the top caps. Used Plasti-gauge to tighten up the new bottom cap.
Oh, knowing in 500 hours, you were going to back in there any way, we saved the bottom rod caps.