M T f U! I'll do it myself.

Thank god for the internet, makes old Cleanslate looks like he knows what he’s doing! Lol.
Did some internet research on my original DD alternator;
As CR said it’s a Delco Remy 10Si. Internal regulated alternator 65amp.
They were quite popular in the 70’s through mid 80’s.
Used for auto, truck, marine, industrial and farm applications.

Wiring info I found, which seems to be what I have .
Si alternators can be considered both 2 and 2 wire systems. To activate it you are only required to supply the main battery wire to BAT terminal which must have power on and ignition wire to terminal #1 yellow wire.

Terminal #2 Red wire ,is for voltage sensing allowing the voltage regulator to turn the alternator on and off.

The black tube cigar thing is a RFI/EMI
1 mF 200-volt or so ? Capacitor wired to the alternator output wire to the block ground.
RFI is radio frequency interference.
EMI is electromagnetic interference.

whaaat ?? Basically it helps with getting rid of interference , static ,whining etc. through your marine electronics and devices.
I’ve already purchased a new 10Si double grove alternator. The new one will go back on exactly the same as the old one. Cleanslate needs to keep it simple stupid. I’m not in the mood to dream up something new.

I replace the water pump and fuel pump two years ago so no I won’t send those out.
Starter is still good with good American made internal parts I assume from 1980.
If it ain’t broke don’t fix it.
I would be concerned with getting it rebuilt and having subpar new parts put in it might not last that long.
Just the gamble I’m going to take.

‘Ello Governor! A look with in…

Good motor mount info for us Detroit folks;

Yo....,Ace...
Acemount was not working out. Took a while to get a response. When they did reach out , there was a lot of back and forth just to get price and availability. Turns out the have to make them up three week lead time , not in stock. Also they no longer make my exact ones I have on the boat. Their new 731 are now a 1/4'' taller at minimum set point. That's a lot when it comes to lining up the shaft and coupler to the Gear, etc. also my hatch is right up against the engine.
Also not the happy about a three week lead time. Yeah, that can turn into three months.

I'm going to use Bushings, Inc. Duel Flex DF-238-M1. www.bushingsinc.com
They are the lowest min. set point I could find for my motors. Found them quickly on line, a few places stock them. Got mine from Fredwarner marine...free shipping.

Heads Up !
Removed all rags from exhaust ports and filled all with Diesel fuel to check for leaking valves/ seats .
All good . No leaks luckily. And no cracks . Never overheated the motor on my watch.
Cam rollers / springs also in good shape.

Number two getting closer to taking a number two..

Tops of pistons dirty from last run just to turn the boat at the slip and then winterized. Cold day it was . Engine never warmed up. Short run time at 40 f out …

Motor mount persuader…

On the plus side , got the heat exchanger tank coolers and core back together all prettied up.

Bottom;

But did they work out ?

That’s great CR.
Your vessel is a rock steady hull, etc. so your hard work will show asp.

My flexible flyer , like the so named snow sled, is always moving.
I installed new shafts two years ago…
Lol
Measured them while in the water and from my out of the water photos .
Was right on the money . 12’ long x 1.5”.
Helped a lot on the vibrations .
But the flexible Flyer I have and some snotty seas along with slim Pacemaker mentality shaft size. Believe my port new shaft is already wobbly.
Ugh , yes corkscrew as you said .

what ever flex along you 42 year old boat . I’m happy .

Found information on the black cigar gizmo in my Ocean Yachts archives.
Yes was an old Loran-C RF interference eliminator.
Don’t think I’ll hook it up who knows if it even works supposedly has a fuse within it it’s probably shot.

Off to the hardware store….

Things look pretty good..

Thought of you and your advice putting a new starter in…