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M T f U! I'll do it myself.

Discussion in 'Engines' started by cleanslate, Dec 24, 2022.

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  1. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    Got it down lower closer to the stringers, which the posts are resting on
  2. MBevins

    MBevins Senior Member

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    Is that I beam resting on a 2x4 that's on the flat?
  3. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    Two 1-5/8” uni-strut / super strut pieces per end , through bolted into the 2 x 6 which are all fastened down on the 4 x 6 posts . Could only get a 4 x 4 post next to the wet bar counter.
    All points / cross beams are on the tops of the posts.
    I - beam rests on the uni-strut.

    I also have all posts tied into the hatch-floor framing with heavy steel deck “L” brackets.
  4. MBevins

    MBevins Senior Member

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    The instruct is incredibly strong and you are only playing with a baby 71.
  5. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    Installed many a commercial kitchen hood and welded grease exhaust duct with that stuff.

    Strong stuff, especially with the span only being around 34 inches overall from post to post.
  6. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    So. is the plan to hoist out the block?
  7. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    No way.
    Doing it in the boat.
  8. MBevins

    MBevins Senior Member

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    Did you notice what spell check changed unistrut too. Had to laugh.
    And yes it's great stuff, I've used a lot of that stuff over the years.
  9. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    I am looking forward to the postmortem on the liners.
    Please post lots of pics.
    Remember to keep the pixels down please.
    If needed, I'll ask for high res pics directly.
    Thx
    cleanslate likes this.
  10. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    82B49322-ACB5-4BB3-987F-419C4E8612AB.jpeg I need just a little help with the old original alternator;
    In the photo what is the black cigar tube looking thing that goes from the alternator to the engine block?
    Is that for the old Loran and Marine electronics interference gizmo?
    Should I keep it on or is it not needed anymore?
  11. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Old Delco alternator. Usually self exciting.
    I have no idea (WTF) that yellow wire or that cigar thingie is.
    Pull that plug, look down into the two male spade terminals, if there is a jumper between them, cut that external sheet off.
  12. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    F091B08D-68EB-4FD6-AED0-DF32D5150834.jpeg Close up;
  13. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    And another ;
    “R” on left “F” on right
    Also a 1 left and 2 right 46962774-BE4A-40CD-A713-312CCB5A8C8E.jpeg
  14. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    The factory jumper looks like it has been removed.

    Pins.jpg

    Make a jumper with two F spades connects and short wire and tie the pins together.
    Cut that other sheet out of there.
  15. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Rather whimpy alternators anyway.
    Think a Lil 10-SI jobber

    Question, This may be important; The battery negative goes to the starter or to the block?
    Most big Delco starters have the negative isolated from the block.
    If negative to the starter, then is there a strap from that starter connect to the block?

    I do not see any heavy alternator cables including no negative strap.
    Not all, but lots of original alternators for Detroit were negative isolated also.

    What I'm getting to; Trying to ensure that whimpy alternator has the best connects to the battery and working correctly.
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2023
  16. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    Darn if I know, but I will know this weekend when I look things over . I've got more to post on the Alt. subject later on . To busy at the moment. But you are correct on the 10-S1 . That's what it is.
  17. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Around the tension ear should be a stamped amp rating. The 10-SIs could put out up to 75 amps on a cold day, downhill & with thick straps. When hot, maybe 40 amps.
    Old, cheap yet reliable.

    Pending your electrical demands, you may consider a larger set up, say 21-SI.
    Another work horse. These come in case ground or negative isolated pending your needs. Up to 150 hot Amps for 12Vdc.

    I do enjoy spending other peoples money.

    I'd at least consider some heavier straps.
  18. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    Getting close to wrapping up the heat exchanger tank and all components within it…
    Everything is in good shape for 42 years old!!
    Transmission oil cooler was extremely dirty…. A5B928EE-C690-4F10-B6CF-A2EF42D42152.jpeg
  19. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    388497E0-E206-4DDB-9BC7-CB1A4849A5AA.jpeg
    CR! Was on the boat yesterday plugging away. My negative cable goes directly to the starter. Then another short cable goes to the block. All of it looks good and solid . But rather dirty and a little rusty on the out side. Starter looks spooky on the out side , rusty needs paint , but otherwise it always works fine. Given what some have said on here about current China made starters , I’ll keep my ugly good Delco starter on clean it up and paint it.
    All the cables / wires so no signs of wear and tear or electrical strains/surges.

    New problem; my motor mounts are shot. One is still rusted in place after two weeks of soaking in penetrating oil.
    Another one while removing the nut the studs started turning freely within the base of the isolator…
    Mine are Acemount 730 series www.acemount.com
    It’s one of the 731 units . Have to get exact measurements today.
  20. MBevins

    MBevins Senior Member

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    Are you planning on sending the ancillary parts of the engine out for refurb/repairs while you have it down? Thinking, starter, alternator, fuel and water pumps. This kinda stuff is often overlooked, while it adds to the cost it well worth the investment.