GFCI & Cruisair

Update:
I had an electrician come down to the boat who pretty much reviewed what I've done so far and checked current on the shore cable, and other things. He also did the silver-silver chloride anode test, which was normal but he didn't do it with the A/C running. I contacted Scituate Boat Works who was listed on the Dometic website for service last Friday and they just got back to me tonight to say they are flat-out for the month. But they did refer me to Nor' East who does all their electrical work, whom I will call.

I notified the dockmaster at the marina that on the breaker on one side of the pedestal, I can only power lights, and anything that draws much current trips it. So when they install a new breaker I should have a definite answer on whether the issue is at the breaker.

Meanwhile I went ahead and replaced the start and run capacitor. For $30, it was an easy way to eliminate them as a source of the problem.

Since I can run the A/C unit on the Reverse Y cable to (2) 30 amp breakers, I have been doing so when it gets hot outside. The inside temperature now reads between 00 and 03 degrees and the A/C runs continuously and doesn't cycle. The temp reading had always been about 10 degrees off but consistent. The previous work done for the prior owner included "relocating" the thermistor, so I just assumed they picked a bad location.

I tried swapping the inside temp thermistor with the outside thermistor but the result was the same (the outside temp reads correctly) so I know it is not bad. Next I will try swapping the SMXII board with one that works from another cabin.

I will start another post soon about my other problem that's been sucking up all my time, and has been a priority over this one.

Update One Year Later:

By the end of June last year, after many days and hours troubleshooting this issue, I had to move on to a more urgent issue and just used the Y adaper on a pedestal with (2) non-GFCI 30 amp breakers.

The more urgent issue was that there were so many leaks and a wet summer, it was like faucets running into the boat. If the bilge pumps didn't work the boat would have sank. There were walls and floors rotting away. This all missed by the surveyor, and promised by the seller that the windows didn't leak. I had to remove and rebed all (6) side windows, remove all the rub rail and re-caulk, and several other leak repairs. That took most of the summer.

I posted back in February how MarineMax Boston (Bay Pointe Marina) kicked out 31 boats for being too old and to make room for the million dollar boats they expected to sell. I was and a T-Head dock that could accomodate an 80' yacht. Now my boat is at Safe Harbor Marina Bay Quincy, and I am connected to a brand new pedastal and 50amp GFCI breaker. I can run anything and everything all at once and not trip anything.

I had suspected that the 50 amp GFCI breaker at MarineMax Boston (C Dock T-Head) might have been tripped to many times and was too sensitive. I asked the dockmaster to have it checked, and he did have his electrician "test" it, and said it was fine.

Having been connected at a different marina to a brand new GFCI breaker for about a month now, it seems pretty conclusive after all that headache, that the problem was at the pedestal and not the boat. There may have been an issue that I have corrected also, but it's hard to know.