What is usually used on glossy interior wood, isn’t it polyurethane? We have two section below the salon windows, about 7’ long and 5” wide that needs refinishing. For some reason the finish cracked and peeled after 15 years… again only 2 x 7 feet by 5 inches. A yacht refinishing specialist came to take a look… $10500 to strip, sand and coat with 10 coats of varnish! have people gone nuts? Any recommendation on a hood and reasonable finisher!
I have used alwgrip varnish multiple layers of varnish and a clearcoat spray and I would for sure change out the blinds to keep the ultra rays from getting into the salon, some blinds allow the sun rays into when they are down for some light you would happy if you get a different type of blinds that don't allow to much sun . I would assume you leave them up . and yes they have gone nuts . hold on its just starting .
The blinds on this side are usually down and the spot that cracked is under the blinds bottom frame. Very weird.
Condensation draining on them? Not quite water damage to the wood, just the finnish? Who knows what has been applied there from previous service, maybe reactions between original and later coatings. Oh yes, wood finishers have lost their minds.
No condensation, no moisture. Only thing I can think of is that there is cold AC blowing toward that side causing a temperature difference with the other side of the blinds when they’re down
Cap rails and toe rails; folk are getting them painted in Jax. Actually cheaper upfront and in the long run. What little teak cap we have on Bertie's asp, will probably get painted this summer. I'm sorry your having an issue in the boat capital of the world, but these wood finish kids need to afford what they are smoking. Just wish they would share. Well maybe not, then the first time in my life, USCG would call me in for a pee test. F M. I just have to drink and remember what is was like when I was a stupid kid.
I loaded and blew up your picture. I would say a split in the finish started it all. Not UV or condensation. just a finish failure, maybe expansion / contraction of the wood. Is that board rite against the outer skin? That exterior skin and interior wood piece probably gets warm in direct sun. Not sun burned, just heat released. So much of the other wood in the picture looks great.
After refinishing you might look into having heat rejection film applied to the glass. We had Huper Optic film installed in a large pilothouse which made a huge difference in heat gain and also protected varnish work, blinds, and fabrics. The product does what they claim. While being installed you could feel a noticeable difference in surface temperature of different materials. Cost way less than refinishing interior wood.
That paint was too stiff if it cracked. Paint it with Epifanes PP Extra, incredible stuff with awesome gloss and gives excellent smooth surfaces even without spraying, just a brush or foam roller. 2k stuff. You can do up to 4 coats per day depending on temperature.
Growing-up in Antigua, home of the classic yacht, most teenagers know how to drive a varnish brush around. Very good income during the season. Heck, some of our varnish crews get flown around the world for big jobs. With these silly prices being quoted, maybe I should get my brushes out again. From the photo it looks like UV has got under it. A simple strip and sand, and as it is now a known trouble spot, perhaps a basecoat of 2-pack poly followed by 4 coats of single pack with a high anti-UV rating should do it. 2 days work max.