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Engine Room Air Conditioning?

Discussion in 'General Yachting Discussion' started by PremierPOWER, Dec 25, 2020.

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  1. PremierPOWER, Dec 25, 2020
    #1
    PremierPOWER

    PremierPOWER New Member

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    Randomly looking at specs on Nordhavn’s website and noticed that they have air conditioning in the engine room. Haven’t really seen that before? I assume it is just for comfort doing maintenance while on shore power? I can’t imagine it doing much when the engine/ generators are running.

    https://nordhavn.com/models/n64/
  2. Pascal, Dec 25, 2020
    #2
    Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    Maybe ok with a generator running but indeed not with the mains. Although looking at the specs 16k btu is probably useless. Also very surprised Norhavn still uses splits and not chillers on a 64.

    on boats where the ER opens to the transom, high speed blowers will make it comfortable to work in even after a run. Pulls cool air in and pushes heat out the door.
  3. Capt J, Dec 25, 2020
    #3
    Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    I've managed/maintained a few yachts with engine room air conditioning. It does nothing with the machinery running. But it's very good for dropping engine room temperature 8-10F while the vessel is sitting at the dock, which makes a huge difference here in Florida when you're spending a few days in there. Even better if you can block the engine room vents while it's running.
  4. PremierPOWER, Dec 25, 2020
    #4
    PremierPOWER

    PremierPOWER New Member

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    I was surprised at that as well. Even their 68 has split systems. 72 is where the chiller system starts. Sort of odd though, as the 72’s chilled water system is only 108,000 btu but the 68 has a total of 168,000 btu between all the split systems.
  5. Pascal, Dec 25, 2020
    #5
    Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    Having used both on boats I run, when i started refitting my own (53 Hatt) going with chillers was a no brainer. I m so glad I did.
  6. rtrafford, Dec 25, 2020
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    rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    I run 120k BTU of chiller driving nearly 180k BTU of air handlers. Given that I have 9 zones, the human impacts as well as solar means that all zones don’t need full support of the chillers. In fact, my first 60k BTU unit sometimes short cycles due to its ability to drop chiller temps very quickly.

    I do think that if I was to make a change it would be to introduce a 24k BTU unit as a sacrificial first phase of chiller to dramatically cut the load on the main two units.
  7. rtrafford, Dec 25, 2020
    #7
    rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    Same. It was such a good decision.
  8. rtrafford, Dec 25, 2020
    #8
    rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    I installed a 24k BTU air handler in the ER. I only use it during maintenance at the dock, and I’m glad it’s there. I also replaced all incandescent lighting with LED to remove those sources of heat.

    Also introduced four inline blowers, two for suction and two for exhaust. Before I engage the AC I can push a lot of heat out of the room fairly quickly, and I can keep it cooler when on the genny on the hook.
  9. Danvilletim, Dec 25, 2020
    #9
    Danvilletim

    Danvilletim Senior Member

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    So worth it. Takes the humidity out of the room also.
  10. Pascal, Dec 25, 2020
    #10
    Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    that s one benefit of a chiller system. You can have less chiller capacity than Air handlers. Probably why in the nordhavn comparison the splits has more condensing capacity...

    both on my 53 and on the Lazzara 84 I run, from novermber thru April or May, I only run one chiller. Usually same at night in summer. More flexibility.
  11. MBevins, Dec 25, 2020
    #11
    MBevins

    MBevins Senior Member

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    For the chiller experts. I'm in the process process of replacement of 3 units 36Kbtu total. On a 44 Viking, Is this a candidate of a switch to a chiller ? Or am I better to stay the course with a combination of splits and stand alone units. Should add only place for the chiller is in the ER.
  12. Capt J, Dec 25, 2020
    #12
    Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    No, stick with what you have. Running water hoses and everything else to make a chiller work in your size boat will be prohibitively expensive.
  13. hat4349, Dec 25, 2020
    #13
    hat4349

    hat4349 Senior Member

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    I agree, going with a chiller is a must if we ever get healthy enough to buy another boat.
  14. Danvilletim, Dec 25, 2020
    #14
    Danvilletim

    Danvilletim Senior Member

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    Chillers are good but certainly not problem free. I’ve replaced 5 on two boats in last 6 months.
  15. Norseman, Dec 25, 2020
    #15
    Norseman

    Norseman Senior Member

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    On the big ships we had air conditioned control rooms within the engine room, but
    not on my first ship in 1974: 12,000 HP 2-stroke diesel in the tropics and we were all sweating but stayed skinny because we worked in a sauna.
    Yours truly cleaning a boiler, dirty work and the Chief gave us a case of beer and half a day off after the job was done, no air condition. :(

    670236AE-891C-440D-9C8F-BAC06344E749.jpeg
  16. Pascal, Dec 25, 2020
    #16
    Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    I depends on the layout of the boat and how much room and access you have to run the insulated hoses

    in my case it was easy. The master is right behind the ER where the chillers are and i installed the AH in a closet against the ER bulkhead. The salon AHs are right above the ER again minimal hose run. Running hoses forward was easy going thru the generator room.

    but yes on most boats it will be difficult.
  17. MBevins, Dec 25, 2020
    #17
    MBevins

    MBevins Senior Member

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    Since 2 out of 3 are splits and we have to change the copper to the AHs anyway, pulling hoses versus copper, I assume the hose is insulated?
  18. Pascal, Dec 26, 2020
    #18
    Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    Yes but the diameter of the hoses is larger
  19. Capt J, Dec 26, 2020
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    Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    I haven't seen the hoses insulated. The insulation is usually added to the outside and to be correct in Florida like ambient temperatures and for the insulation to last, you have to go with 3/4" thick insulation over the hoses, and it makes each hose 2" or so in diameter, so considerably different as far as running the hoses where the copper ones were. It's a big project to convert a boat that small and much more expensive than just replacing whats there. Not to mentioned I've been waiting between 6-8 weeks for 2 new, 5 ton chillers from Dometic on a 2011 boat whose chillers have failed beyond fixing.
  20. MBevins, Dec 26, 2020
    #20
    MBevins

    MBevins Senior Member

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    I'm about to order all new stuff anyway, to replace all 3 I'm looking at about $20K labor in. So unless a 2 1/2 ton chiller is more than $15K it might still be worthwhile.
    (But I'll admit I know zip about chillers)
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