How to handle humidity

AC will somehow remove humidity as the cold air can hold a lot less moisture than warm air: Check the tray below your condenser, it will be full of fresh water, let it drain in the bilge and pump overboard, and add a few drops of chlorine occasionally to keep the bugs at bay.
Or instal a dehumidifier, it will suck moisture out of the air as well.

Most a/c's have a dehumidify (HU) setting so it's not constantly running and won't turn your boat into a freezer while your away. It's been awhile but if I remember correctly you press 3 buttons at once to pull it up on most of the units I ran.

Sure, do additional plumbing to make the fresh water drain overboard.
If not, let it go in the bilge and let the bilge pumps push it out.
On my boat the fresh water drains into a tray, which over flows into the bilge, then gets pumped out.
On big boats the amount of water and humidity needs its own drainage for sure, but don’t know what size boat the OP was taking about: On my tub the 3 automatic bilge pumps takes care of the excess humidity and it keeps the pumps working and exercised.

Totally agree. The amount of condensate is minor. Why put another hole in the boat or plumb into your sump? What's the difference which pump sends it overboard?

I know you meant evaporator.

I was just looking at a pic of an A/C control panel similar to what used to be on most boats I ran, and it was a triangle push to turn it to dehumidify, push and hold cool, heat and it's either fan or temp at the same time and HU should show.

Ha, maybe so.
Will get back to you when I am sober..

Fresh water taken from the air is more nasty than the salt water already in your bilge from a dripping shaft, vents, anchor chains, etc.? Why set the Tstat higher? Then it won't turn on by humidity and you'll come back to a damp/moldy boat unless the temp reaches that setting or it'll run constantly on hot days burning electricity and cause that humidity to ice up the unit. Granted it's a problem that doesn't usually happen on larger boats where the compressors are down in the Generator room, but it's a common problem on smaller boats where the units are underneath berths or sofas. Why not just use the dehumidifier setting? Granted a lot of boat owners don't even know about the dehumidifier setting such as the OP.

Here in South Florida, I keep the boats on A/C around 77-78F. Never get any mold. I believe in sending the condensate into a grey water tank and pumping it over......why just move the humidity to the bilge? My bilges on the boats I manage are dry usually. Humidity mode the boat's get too hot inside also damaging furnishings and wood work.

If the OP in Mass. set his temp to 77* it'd almost never turn on during the most humid days and nights, just a few days during the height of summer. You'll have a musty boat. Granted that bilges have gotten much drier since the creation of dripless shaft logs, but a bone dry bilge is still the exception rather than the rule and if it happens to be one all the more reason you'd want a little water to kick on your bilge pump once in a blue moon. We're talking condensate. There's not much. Certainly not enough to justify any plumbing or other pumps. I mean if it bothers you go for it, but I see it as a cure looking for a problem.

Because it get pumped out immediately, if you have a good system.
My bilges are also dusty, I hate standing water in the bilge making a Petri dish under the floor boards.
(Disclaimer: I only have owned 2 boats with cabin A/C, but worked on quite a few big boats with A/C systems)

On my present boat I installed a sump-pump with a suction tube much lower than the forward bilge pump could pick up: Upper left hand corner in the picture:

The 66' Sunseeker I manage. The A/C's put around 20 gallons of water into the grey water tank per week.

That looks like a pretty normal set up where the higher pump would be connected to an alarm, but what is that electrical gizmo near the pumps? Unless it's an optical illusion that looks like it could get submerged and it doesn't look to be made for submersion.

Most bilge pump setups I've encountered would kick it overboard at about 1 gallon, about 1". BTW, on that 66 you probably have 4 or 5 A/C units together in one location. So why not direct the condensate into a sump, but on smaller boats you're dealing with units scattered around the boat. Why waste the money on the extra plumbing? Plus if the sump or one of those hoses gets clogged it's going to back up into the salon or stateroom.
Also in Florida you have constant heat. You need A/C cooling most of the time, and whenever it kicks on you're dehumidifying. So no need to use the HU setting. It's different up north where the OP is from.

But you always have a wet bilge over many feet of the boat, and that humidity just radiates up and goes back into the boat. Forward bilges on all of the boats that I manage are dry, engine rooms a different story but those are under the aft deck.

J you're just looking to argue. If your bilge pump is properly located it's no such thing. This is nonsense. OP just turn on your dehumidify setting and enjoy your dry boat. Good night.