Teak sole and gunwale/covering boards new install

But they don't just do flat covering boards over your fiberglass covering board, the covering board is L shaped and wraps around the inside of the gunnel too, where they used to put the old school coming pads, SO you don't see it being raised AT ALL. Go to a marina and look at a new Viking or Hatteras or etc with teak covering boards and you will understand what I'm talking about.

LIKE THIS:
https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&id=1452B4F6C41C35387A8807EE132AC99C4298A104&thid=OIP.QIjNzR26ajzXhdMcAYQ1nQHaE7&mediaurl=http://www.tradeaboat.co.nz/media/15330515/hatteras-45-fishing-deck_500x333.jpg&exph=333&expw=500&q=hatteras+sportfish+teak+covering+boards&selectedindex=15&qpvt=hatteras+sportfish+teak+covering+boards&ajaxhist=0&vt=0&eim=1,2,6

The L shaped boards may raise the height but the deck of the cockpit would also go up some so the difference would net out a bit.

Exactly this, deck height is increasing a little over 3/4" at the same time.

It looks like you have oil on your deck. It's dark, not grey or light golden . Like Deks Olje or tung oil.

Since I posted that picture of my old Matthews you got your wood up!
Why not trade that Post in for a classic Rybovich, Merrit, or Monterey! Plenty of wood there.
See Old Cleanslate knows his Sportfishing boats...nothing against Post , they are a fine Glass Sportfisherman. I'm talking wood right now.

There is a company that painted a new Hatteras 70' GT toe rail to look just like varnished wood and it looked really sharp. I don't know the name of it, but if you're already happy with the shape and height of your gunnels, possibly just have them painted to look like teak without any of the maintenance.

This one was paint. They laid down a base brown color, then airbrushed the grain into it, then clear coated it.

I haven't read the responses yet so this might have already been said. I replaced the covering boards on my old 42' Post. It really is a simple job! I removed the existing and made templates with heavy construction paper. To make it with only three pieces, the transom piece was something like 18" wide to cover the whole curve. I cut the new 5/8" pieces with a regular skill saw with a 5" blade which made the curves easily. I rounded over the top edges with a 1/4 round router bit then I dry fit everything, made some small modifications then installed. I did not use screws! All I did was get 14 good adjustable clamps and two sand bags. The bow of the transom was much more than you would think so the sand bags worked perfectly while I made final adjustments. I used West System Epoxy to secure it all and it never had an issue. It was a fun job & didn't take long at all.

You're only talking about 3/4" thick for the teak covering boards.

In my case, not too bad. The original covering boards were glued and screwed. The screws were easy, I just knocked out what was left of the bungs and backed out the screws. I forget what it was called but the adhesive was that old brownish epoxy but it was so brittle at that point, it scraped off pretty easily then I used an orbital sander to remove the rest and scuff up the glass a bit for a clean surface for the West System epoxy to adhere to.

Ok, I can't find any old photos of the cockpit (pre cell phone cameras) but I'll poke fun at myself as it was a first. A celestial tide, wind blow out and a notoriously shallow area of the ICW heading to CT from Stuart, Fl in an area called Palm Bay FL. Notice the posture of the sea tow guy? He's hopelessly stuck too. So were five other boats close by. You can almost see covering boards LOL!