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Heat Exchanger Gaskets

Discussion in 'Ocean Yacht' started by Boomer, Dec 26, 2019.

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  1. Capt Ralph, Jan 6, 2020
    #21
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Boomer
    I have 9lb caps on my 12V71 with a top gasket for closed cooling system.
    Check with JT on their operating pressures.

    Also, does it look like anybody has worked on your closed cooling water pump.
    Started sipping some better vodka with a friend tonight and this just popped into my mind; two different impellers. Standard and H O.
    While the coolant is out, pop that cover off and see if you can find a part number on the impeller.
    Go back to the stuff I sent you.

    Attached Files:

    • fwp.pdf
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  2. Boomer, Jan 7, 2020
    #22
    Boomer

    Boomer Senior Member

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    Good morning...appreciate the caps number...I only started over heating towards the end of the summer and the water pump was not replaced or touched in the interim...but I will see if the bolts move and I can remove them...a bunch of them have not been move in years and I am afraid of breaking some and having a whole new project to get after
  3. cleanslate, Jan 7, 2020
    #23
    cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    PB blaster them and any other rusty suspect nuts and bolts while your looking at the motors, then walk away. Let it soak till the following weekend, give them a squirt and a try to loosen or if not taking apart and little snug up on the old nuts and bolts. You will be surprised at how things loosen up on our older J&Ts.
  4. Boomer, Jan 7, 2020
    #24
    Boomer

    Boomer Senior Member

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    Tightening is no problem...a lot of bolts are painted in place...lol...only broke one bolt taking the cooling system apart...the circulation pump has been on there for a while based on the paint
  5. Capt Ralph, Jan 7, 2020
    #25
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    You get that broke bolt out yet?
  6. Boomer, Jan 7, 2020
    #26
    Boomer

    Boomer Senior Member

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    I was very blessed...head broke...pulled flange off and hit the stud with vice grips... bolt backed right out...blessed indeed
  7. Capt Ralph, Jan 7, 2020
    #27
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Yep..:):)
  8. cleanslate, Jan 7, 2020
    #28
    cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    That's good.:)
    Anyway painted well or not , spray, set, and soak when ever you can. My semi rusty stuff came right apart. Mine soaked for two weeks..
    That goes for the hoses to. I really helps them break loose with out ripping up the hose.

    Anyway good luck, I think you'll have an Ocean Rocketship when you are done. ;)
  9. Boomer, Jan 8, 2020
    #29
    Boomer

    Boomer Senior Member

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    We are getting there...paint motors this weekend, put some fiberglass on the leaking water tubes, sand paint, and it is time for reassembly after pressure test
  10. Boomer, Jan 8, 2020
    #30
    Boomer

    Boomer Senior Member

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    Question: does anyone put a swipe of gasket sealer on the inside of their rubber pipes when reassembling to the flanges for better sealing? Some of my pipe flanges are not perfectly round anymore from years of hose clamps on them...you can only make them so round with tools
  11. Capt J, Jan 8, 2020
    #31
    Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    You mean on the rubber hoses where they go on the flanges? People do it with sanitation hoses all of the time. However, you usually destroy 2" of the hose when you remove the hoses, so all of those short Detroit hoses would need to be replaced if you ever took them off and it makes taking them off a PITA.
  12. Capt Ralph, Jan 8, 2020
    #32
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    I assume your talking about the 1 1/5" piping around your 671s.
    I use wood dowels, screw driver handles, big sockets and small plastic mallet to clean up deformed copper piping.
    Don't stretch the copper, roll and tap.
    Don't take it to a muffler shop, it will get stretched there and the hose will never fit.

    I am not a fan of hose glue.
  13. chesapeake46, Jan 8, 2020
    #33
    chesapeake46

    chesapeake46 Senior Member

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    You must be living right, my friend. :)
  14. cleanslate, Jan 8, 2020
    #34
    cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    What ?? Mine are older than yours , and my previous Detroits were from 1962, none ever had a deformed pipe flange , cast iron, or copper, from a hose clamp. Not sure what you mean.
    Anyway if said pipe is out of round , maybe a tapered wood plug the kind you should have onboard for plugging up hoses and sea cocks, may work with a light tap.
    Or maybe a thin coating of 100percent silicone...
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2020
  15. Capt Ralph, Jan 8, 2020
    #35
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Ug, Rudolf Diesel was just rolled back into the sea,, again..

    If anything is not correct, make it correct and never loose any sleep over it.
    Patch it and it will haunt you till it does fail in the next 10 years.
    Tomorrow or 3,650 days from now, it will fail.

    o_Oo_Oo_O
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2020
  16. Boomer, Jan 9, 2020
    #36
    Boomer

    Boomer Senior Member

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    Some of the bronze tubing ends have been deformed from over tightening the tbolts...wood dowel and screwdrivers handles are great ideas...thanks....and yes I do try to live my life right..I fail often, repent, and move forward again
  17. Capt Ralph, Jan 9, 2020
    #37
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Copper or Bronze?
    You can reform the copper, the Bronze only bends once.
  18. Boomer, Jan 9, 2020
    #38
    Boomer

    Boomer Senior Member

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    Bronze
  19. Capt Ralph, Jan 9, 2020
    #39
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Please post a picture.
    It is hard and usually dangerous for bronze to be re-shaped.
  20. Boomer, Jan 9, 2020
    #40
    Boomer

    Boomer Senior Member

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    Will take pics tonight
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