Prop Cost

Are you getting any vibration at speed? Where are you located?

If you re not getting vibrations it wouldn’t be the first time a diver claims props have dings and oh by the way I can take them to a good prop shop to get them fixed... . I ve seen guys trying to pull off that scam

When I repowered my 53 Hatteras MY I got quotes for new bronze 4 blades 28x24 2” shaft at $2500.

Any decent prop shop should be able to recondition and balance your props... prices vary. I ended up having my existing props repitched and balanced as they were Nibral Forgot the price but a fraction of new ones.

But again, do a sea trial for vibrations

Seattle? Land of logs, trash and torpedoes of some kind always in the water?

Get the real D & P before you order anything.
I'm a diameter guy. Always looking for more on a displacement hull.

Talk to the Prop Shop about new props/prices, they are in Mukilteo:

https://propshopinc.com/inboard-propellers-20.html

I also boat in Seattle and wouldn't even think about what props to replace your current set up with until you have had the boat hauled and taken a good look at the condition of your running gear. Once you know that then figure out if your current pops can be repaired or if you need to go with new props. If you do need new props try and figure out what diameter and pitch was used when the boat was delivered and look at something similar or possibly with slightly less pitch as over the years the boat has probably been loaded down with more gear which can take a toll on your engines if not propped correctly for that. We have a number of good prop shops in the Puget Sound from Anacortes to Seattle. I use John at the Prop Shop in Mukilteo which coincidentally is who Pac Blue mentioned above.

After you have replaced with new props, see if the old ones can be refurbished enough to keep as back-up emergency spares.

Wade, Have you had the boat hauled? Did you ever see the bottom? I would haul the boat and inspect the entire bottom, that's some nasty damage to the props. Your big props can take bangs from logs and such..that's a big hit..I would want to see the running gear, the hull, keel etc. with my own eyes. Then size your props and shop around for used of refurbished props. You can find many with little run time on them , used at many prop shops. If money is no problem then, sure get new ones at double the price.

Definitely take them to a reputable prop shop first and get an estimate. I've seen props that in my opinion were absolutely destroyed and they came out like new for a fraction of the price. There are a few sites that sell used props too.
I sheered off a 3-1/2" shaft and lost a prop three years ago (crack starting at the keyway). Fortunately it exited without hitting anything. I have 34" 5 blade Nibral wheels and a found a two year old set of Veems which cost $18k (plus a new shaft) ouch!

I

I hope you the other shaft magnaflux. Same thing happened two me a year ago (retrieved the prop in 22’ of water on Exuma Bank) and when we hauled out the other 3 1/2 “ shaft was cracked too

Was just wondering. Do the shafts start to crack because of age or because they have had a few bumps along the way?

“Bumps” would add stress but in our case i didn’t find any evidence of this having happened in the boat history

Some folks also believe that installing props under water increase the chances of the prop not being seated properly. Maybe

One thing I suspect greatly increase stress is heavy handed captains. On sea trial 2 years before,the previous captain accelerated so quickly that we got massive cavitation and vibration. The stress loads on the shaft from massive amount of power are huge

Short answer is yes to both or any combination there of.

Shafts will wear over time and should be inspected after every "bump'.

For sure. I recall a particular operator whose docking maneuvers involved numerous slams from forward to reverse and vice versa. I was always waiting for something to snap watching it. How about we spend a few secs in neutral, let the RPM's settle down and then GENTLY nudge it where it needs to go. Being nice to your running gear is a good idea.

The cracks will start if the wheel doesn’t slide over the key. When they repair wheels they are placed on a mandrel to hold it in position for the pitch block. For some reason it rolls the corner of the key way slightly on the large side of the bore. Always take a file and dress the key way so the key slides easily through the wheel. Whether you put any type of lube or anti seize product on the shaft is open to debate. Seems like every boat yard has their own thoughts on that. I’ve never been a fan of changing props in the water either unless you just have to. Too many things can go wrong.

Brad shares from keyways have an always