Older Hatt vs Older Sea Ray vs Newer Silverton

Everything about it is a pain. It severely limits your options when upgrading to modern equipment. Finding old equipment takes a lot of time and effort. Even things such as light bulbs can be a problem.

I've managed 32 volt boats, I started with 32 volt boats, it's annoying as hell. Your options are limited, if you like 1970's technology and galley maid toilets, screw in filament light bulbs, a choice between a rule 2000 and rule 3700 bilge pump, and etc. and not much else. I'm over fixing 1970's junk such as galley maid saltwater flush toilets for example. I can retrofit a nice 24 volt Raritan new head instead of rebuilding a 24 volt galley maid head, that's reliable, less moving parts, less noise, and less water going into the holding tank, for less money. But everytime you do that on a 32 volt boat, you then need to wire in a converter to go from 32 volts to 24 volts which is another step and more cost and another thing to fail. You can't buy a 32 volt jabsco engine room blower for example, you have to buy the entire 24 volt blower assembly, then the 32 volt motor for it, then swap them in the blower assembly. Stuff like that. Can't find a bilge pump smaller than a rule 2000 for shower sumps.

For me, only a couple non-technical things: first is that I'm just not familiar with it, and second is that it seems to me it would add another layer of complexity in several areas at once (service, replacements, wiring, etc.) and I'm just not up for taking some of that on. My preference is for just one DC voltage, even if it's not perfect.

I see some of the other comments here do seem to support the theory that 32V brings more issues... not insurmountable but more work than I could "enjoy."

-Chris

Holy cow! I just learned a Feadship load of info on the back and forth posts on this O.P. Thank You! All good to know for that next purchase, which is not soon.....

One man's issues can be another man's no big deal.

But I started this whole boat thing with no background/experience on engines, plumbing, electrical, HVAC, etc... so almost everything is a learning experience... usually even starting with first having to learn the relevant jargon associated with all those areas. What's a flange? What's the difference between a plug and a cap? Et cetera. I understood most of the theory, of course. I knew what an injector pump does, and generally how, for example, but I didn't know what one looked like. And so forth.

So I'm just managing how much curve there is at any given time in my learning chores.

-Chris

While 32V can be managed with some effort, or possibly less for an industry insider, most 32V owners have long terms goals of converting to 24V. No one in this era would purposely search for a 32V boat today, everyone acknowledges a 24V system is the preferred set-up. The everyday owner doesn’t want the hassle of upkeep on a dated major system.

OPTIONS. No matter where you're traveling you can find parts. You have a much larger variety in parts and many many places stock them. I can get Rule bilge pumps (for example) in 24 volts in every increment from 500-4000 GPH at any number of parts sellers. Same goes for batteries, I can find 12 volt batteries for a 24 volt system anywhere in the world and easily. If I want to change a toilet, I have a choice of over 2 dozen different brands and models, not 2 models. Battery chargers, I have dozens and dozens to choose from and in all output amps.

Yes, you can keep a 32 volt boat going, but it takes an aweful lot of time to find the parts to do so and your options are very limited on which parts and variety you can buy. Like what's the smallest 32 volt rule bilge pump you can buy, 2000 gph…...well that doesn't work out so great in some shower sumps. Sure you can carry a lot of spares, but unfortunately the part you need in the Bahamas on a trip is the one spare you don't have. I'm in the yachting parts capital of the world, and whenever I work on a 32 volt boat, it's a pain in the ass even for me to find parts at times.

Look at it this way, you would not design your 40 - 60’ vessel with a 32V system today. It wouldn’t even be a topic or design consideration.
You can keep a 32V boat going much like you can keep a carburated classic car going, but their are better options. You would only keep it that way to remain original.
It would definitely be a deal killer for an average boater in my opinion. It would be a high ranked item on the list to replace/redo/rewire.
I have no idea how 32V has better seaworthiness or ease of boarding, what does that even mean?

I would not eliminate the 32V from my consideration but everything else being equal, I'd definitely choose 24V. There is always an advantage in being within the current mainstream. Wider selection and more choices of equipment and parts. There are plenty of captains and engineers today who have never been exposed to 32V. Yes, they can learn and can keep parts, but life is simpler with 24V. If the boat I felt I just had to have was 32V, I'd buy it. However, it is a factor I would consider in deciding.

Yes, absolutely, keeps the value of your classic at the right investment point.

What year/model 46 SR has the offending fw pump?