I've been a wood boat owner most of my life, and for the past four years own an '81 42' Ocean Yachts sunliner. So blisters is a newish thing to me, but I have heard of them over the years. I have seen a few on my boat , not many on my haul outs. Dime to nickel size and have just let them be. They seem to stay the same. I haul out around 1.5 to 2 years intervals. Do my work in a few days and go back in again. Here are my questions; 1- If left untreated/ fixed will a blister work it's way through the hull? 2- I stay in the water year round, is this a problem? Will it create more or enlarge the blister? 3- How to remove and fix a blister? Just dig/grind it out and fill in with west system? 4- I do have a few under the forward deck seat cushions , but I don't have any leaks there and everything is still solid. The cushions cover them up, which I remove for the winter. I see with lots of blisters, a peel or sand blast is needed to remove layers of stuff, like resin or actual glass?, I'm not in need of that.
To settle all you concerns, think about getting the bottom barrier coated. I did mine about 12 years ago, I'm in the water year round and all is good with the bottom. My cost back then for a nut shell blasting and 5 coats was about $7k
If you only have a few now, more will start to appear most likely. Next haul out, grind and re-glass the ones you have, and perhaps sandblast bottom and put a good barrier coat on. You will still likely get so after, from prior moisture. This will help with further blisters down the road. If it is only a few, fix the ones you have, and continue this process during haul outs.
Mine too before I bought the boat, every fitting was removed from the bottom, it was shaved and redone with barrier coat etc. Have kept it in a covered slip in the water year round since 2008, no problems. Depends on how long you think you'll keep the boat. My understanding is that you would like to let the areas dry out as the mat can wick the water further up into the surrounding area and you want to be sure it is good and dry before repairs or you are wasting your time.
Absolutely agree with C46. If you glass/barrier coat before you make sure things are dry, you will have little glassed-in pockets of water. Grind any blister and let it dry out before coating. You can use a moisture meter to check things. Also, I have been using an ablative bottom paint since I did my bottom. Initial three coats, the first coat a different color. I only need to apply one coat every other season. Diver on off years
I don't want to do a blast and barrier coat, I'm not keeping the boat to long. They seem to be far and few between. Think I will pop them, grind them out , and dry with a heat gun on low to dry quickly, then fill in interlux water tight epoxy filler. I've always used ablative bottom paints, now I'm using the water base kind which seems to work well. I was always wondering if a blister could work it's way through the hull? I've never heard of that....
Me too...Must be where I'm at for the winter. I'm in the water for the winter under the shed, you must be up on the hill?
Ok, nice quiet place,and nice shed. Rock Hall Prop straightened out my bronze shaft for me a few years back and did a great job.
Yes , it is quiet there. A glorified boat yard but they can fix almost anything there from wood, FRP, Aluminum and steel. I believe they have " DETROIT" tattooed on their chests as well.
Oh yeah ? They are good on 1980's Detroits ? I'm not thrilled with my private guy I use. Getting tired of "Having to keep on him" to get things done right.