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Sea-Cock type?

Discussion in 'Technical Discussion' started by Scott Johnson, Dec 13, 2018.

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  1. Scott Johnson

    Scott Johnson New Member

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    Location:
    Sanford, FL
    This is on a 1976 Bertram 58MY
    I would like to identify the maker and type of sea-cock. I would like to find documentation on service and maintenance. I exercised the valves and there is some seeping of water from the edges now.
    IMG_1439.jpg IMG_1441.jpg IMG_1442.jpg IMG_1443.jpg
  2. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    Change it, it is 42 years old and past it's useful life. Do the other one as well. It might be an old Groco.
  3. RER

    RER Senior Member

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    Wilcox Crittenden. You can see the WC logo near the base of the casting.
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2018
  4. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    That’s what Hatteras used as well back then. I replaced them all with new.
  5. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Wilcox Crittenden
    I serviced the cocks to my mains. Slowly been replacing all others.
  6. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    What the others said, replace them.
    They are good cocks ,but yours is looking a bit ''funny'' green here and there. You said they are now leaking from the edges...
    Until you replace them, and I know that can take a little time, I would spray them with BP Blaster to loosen them up more. This will also help clean them up, with a s/s brush and rag. Spray the nut on photo #2 let that soak for a bit. Now if you snug that nut up the end cap/washer and internal drum should stop the water leak from around the edges. Also if you loosen the nut up, just a turn or so that will make it easier to work the cock open and closed, but will increase your leak until you snug it up again in either the open or closed position.

    Sometimes you have to give the nut end a tap with a hammer on the center stud to pop it loose on the handle side, to get it to move easily .
  7. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Old bronze. Never a hammer, Mallet or hammer and block of wood.
  8. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    Why not a hammer, you need a good tap, not a ''slam'', to pop it open/loose. I always did it that way with mine on my Matthews , which were original WC units, and they were great btw, way better than the stuff made today. All quality pure bronze , solid and heavy.

    Anyway let me know why, no hammer. Maybe I was lucky nothing happened.
  9. d_meister

    d_meister Senior Member

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    I rebuilt a set of those years ago, breaking them down and lapping them in with valve grinding compound. They were beautiful when I was done and operated very smoothly when adjusted just so. Unfortunately, the sweet spot of turning easily and not leaking is completely elusive. Ultimately, getting them to turn required Ralph's persuasion method. Be careful with the "Love Taps", because the stud with the nut is very soft and bends very easily. The things should be replaced so that anyone can swing the valves and save the boat if ever necessary without finding tools and employing a multi-step process. The only good things that can be said for them is that they can turn in either direction and the handle can be positioned in 4 directions. That and they can be polished up to make a shiny table lamp base:)
  10. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Electrolysis, galvanic erosion, corrosion, old age; what ever it's called turns that old bronze into a fragile device.
    When I replaced many on my '78 Bert I learned one good rap with a hammer could smash a cock or thru hull like ice.
    Bertram used bronze machine screws thru the hull, thru the backing board to the cock flange. A hit on the cock would break the screws.
    Other times they would deform like putty.
    WCs and some Chinese copys use a nut to make tension on the tapered insert. A solid face strike here can damage or break the threaded parts
    Also deform the taper or housing loosing the near perfect fit.

    Been messing around bilges for a while now.
    When trying to close cocks on other boats, I have felt something start to deform. I stop before they break apart.

    I have witnessed the aftermath of people leaning to hard on a sea cock. AND beating on them.
    Those handle extenders scare me also.

    IMO, there is not much in a bilge that requires a hammer.
    Correct installation, maintance, care and yearly operation of sea cocks removes any need for even that block of wood.
  11. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    It's the lapping compound that saved my big WC engine sea cocks, like the OPs. Lots of water proof grease makes the final sealant.
  12. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    Hmm, see I learn something new everyday on here. Wish the ones I have removed before would shatter like ice for me...they were a P.I.A to get out...had to cut them up in sections with a saw zaw and tap out the sections...
  13. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    There have been times when I also wondered "Why and I replacing this solid PIA thru hull" .
    I believe Murphy hides in my back pocket at times.

    Think it's the 5200 curse some times when removing thru hull parts. 5200 takes a hammer blows and laughs back.
    I often wander if I could make a tank of that stuff. Shells would just bounce off.

    Bottom line for me, treat it like ice or ice cream when it's it the water. I've never accidentally flooded a boat yet.